This page contains my notes from different filaments. As my main usage is fairly large parts, I have only ONCE printed with the 0.4mm nozzle, that print was the small Prusa logo included in provided SD card. Otherwise I have printed everything with 0.6mm nozzle. So my user experience doesn't reflect to someone printing small figurines etc.
I have printed almost everything with PLA. This is because of warping; when printing large parts filling almost whole printer bed warping is major issue even with PLA. There are some nice colors I really like in PETG, but atleast without enclosure I have not found reliable way to print large prints with PETG.
If nothing else mentioned results are based on PrusaSlicer default settings for filament type e.g. "Generic PLA" OR filament specific settings if they exist. If manufacturer recommended temperature differs from setting then I typically adjust the temperature. Also if I'm printing something, which is not going to displayed in it's final use I tend to change temperature few times during printing to see does temperature have which kind of effect to surface quality.
As I plan not to sand and paint the 3D-printed parts the color and finish quality is important for me in addition to mechanical properties. All PLA prints easily and generally there are small differences in warping and 1st layer adhesion => so only exceptional properties of filament have comment about those.
In general I have strong preference to Prusa's Prusament PLA and variants having glitter (typically word "Galaxy" in the name) as these print really nice; the variance in filament are minimal between layers - and if there are issues the glitter tends to hide the surface issues. Also price in general is OK (not the cheapest, but definitely not expensive). The drawback is that there isn't many colors.
|3DJAKE||ecoPLA glitter Light Green||XXX g||Somehow feels low quality, on all prints this far there have been clear difference between layers like the filament dimensions would be changing or something similar. Color I would call vibrant version of army green, finish is glossy and for my eye there is too much glitter (about 5x compared to Prusament "Galaxy" filaments).|
|Class Ohlson||Black||XXX g||Very glossy black, which prints well. No color tint, black as it should be.|
|Creality||Green||XXX g||Prints quite nicely. Color is very close to army green, but little more saturated. Semigloss or even gloss finish. Spool identical to SainSmart (transparent little wider than Filamentum, about same width as Prusament.|
|Colorfabb||PLA/PHA Transparent Green||XXX g||Very dark glossy green. Prints nicely, very even layers. I would like this very much, but for my use it's little too transparent; with 4 perimiters the infill is still shown.|
|Enotepad||Grey||XXX g||This filament tends to be little "stringy", and don't like to be printed above 205°C, even manufacturer says 190-230°C. When printed 205°C and external perimiters 20mm/s the result are OK. Surface finish is semigloss (or matte with little gloss...) with mentioned settings - with these settings layer printing time doesn't have huge difference to glossiness, but difference can be seen. Manufacturer claims 0.02mm tolerance, and based on results it could be true even this is quite cheap filament. PS. Make sure spool holder is skrewed, not loose - there was spooling issue and i3S pulled so hard that spool holder did fall from shelf and caused small crack to display box, need to print new one...|
|Eryone||Sparkly Silver||XXX g||Light gray with glitter, 2-3x as much glitter as in Prusament for example. At 210°C there was "stringiness", next time trying to print 200°C.|
|Extrudr||NX2 Emerald Green||XXX g||Matte finish, prints nice with PrusaSlicer "Generic PLA". When used settings proposed by Jake3D; cooling max 30% and slower print speed results were bad; corners had quality issues and 45° overhang printed really badly => I'll use just the default "Generic PLA" settings in future. Many reviews on filament stores said this is soft filament, and this is the case e.g. you can leave scratches to prints with fingernail. Using middle of the temperature range (190-230°C) result is more semigloss than matte, clear differences between different printing speeds. Layer-to-layer adhesion is not great even at 210°C, I managed to break the test part checking it's flexibility by twisting it a little.|
|Extrudr||NX2 Turquoise||XXX g||Test print with NX2 Emerald Green @ 210°C did produce more of semigloss finish than matte at lower printing speeds. So decided to test this at bottom of temperature range (190-230°C) instead middle, afterall matte filament is supposed to produce matte results... All worked fine, extruder didn't make clicking sounds etc. External perimiters at 44mm/s become very matte, but layer lines were super visible (filament don't melt as well to previous layer?). To me surprise 22mm/s become somewhat matte finish, just little more saturated and little glossiness. 11mm/s again produces little more saturation and glossiness, but I would still say it's closer to matte than semigloss. So if matte result is preferred it's somewhat possible using very low extruder temperature of 190°C. Notice! Printing 190°C resultes much worse layer-to-layer adhesion 4-layer (2.41mm) vertical wall broke when I was twisting the test piece to see does the part have same flexibility as NX2 Emerald Green => as overall I can't recommend using 190°C unless you are printing some decoration etc.|
|Extrudr||Biofusion Reptile Green||XXX g||Very glossy green, similar to Blue Fire, but has two issues which Blue Fire didn't: 1) during bed leveling the filament tends to ooze from nozzle and cause issues 2) layers aren't as homegenous as Blue Fire.
Hue is pure green, without tint towards yellow or blue. Green is medium darkness, not light or dark. Glossiness or hue doesn't change as much as with Blue Fire. Exceptional bed adhesion (clearly strongest from all PLAs I have printed with), e.g. brim is next to impossible remove from from smooth PEI-sheet, and few times I had problems even with textured PEI-sheet - to not ruin printing surface I have used gluestick on all prints after finding out the exceptional adhesion. Great bed adhesion is really good sign for large part printing - haven'd printed any yet, need to update here after first large prints. Layer to layer adhesion is WEAK, I have had many prints broken when when I remove them from textured bed (e.g. flat 20mm wide surface against bed, and 4 layer (2.41mm) wide structure on top of it -> when removing part it's most likely going to break - this at 230°C printing, issue is worse when printing lower temperatures.|
UPDATE! After printing large speaker parts this filament wasn't as good as expected: I printed two tweeter housings (160mm x 65mm bottom, 18mm rounding on corners, printing duration 7h) and results were supricing; printed first 225°C and all worked fine, but printed 2nd 215° and for some reason all corners lifted - all conditions were identical. So for future use, I will print only 230°C, there is no point printing lower temperature.
|Extrudr||Biofusion Blue Fire||XXX g||Very strong blue, could be alternative to Filamentum Noble Blue, which is this far nicest blue filament I have found. Hue can tint towards magenta, large print speed, large layer print time etc. will cause less gloss, and at same time hue tends to tint towards magenta. Surface finish is very glossy. Temperature range is 200-230°C (package, some websites say 190-230°C. 210°C did work well, and even 190°C didn't have obvious issues - however print at 230°C produced superior results and gave more tolerange to external perimiter speed changes and layer print time. However even at 230°C it seems printing speed have to be dropped to 20mm/s max. Haven't printed anything big yet, but quite interesting to see as manufacturer claims "low warping". Bed adhesion not as extreme as Reptile Green but 2nd strongest from all PLAs, unfortunately also layer-to-layer adhesion is weak like in Reptile Green, not as bad but close.|
|eSun||PLA+ Green||XXX g||Temperatures from included brochure: nozzle 205-225°C, bed 60-80°C. Color is very dark green (similar to Prusament Opal Green minus glitter, slightly darker). Test print was done with 220°C & 70°C bed. Finish is semiglossy, and exceptional small difference between 44/22/11 mm/s print speeds, 44mm/s slightly lighter color, can't see difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s. Print is little more flexible than normal PLA, but not as soft as Sunly Silk Green or Fiberlogy FirerSilk filaments - can't also scratch with fingernail. Layer to layer adhesion seems ok, but bed adhesion was weaker than expected @ 70°C bed.|
|Fillamentum||Extrafill Noble Blue||XXX g||Wow! Really deep blue with semigloss finish. I limited the printing speed on perimiters and tops surfaces to 20mm/s @ 200°C, and the surface was very even and at 0.2mm layer height part looks smoots without having any typical 3D print look. There was little issues with stringiness (small white super thin strings, can be almost just blown away = not a problem), which I have not faced with Prusament for example. I wish there would be similar filament in green color.|
|Fillamentum||Extrafill Luminius Green||XXX g||Nice green, hue is same as my favorite green, but this one is little too light/bright and it seems I still haven't found replacement for discontinued(?) Prusa Pearl Green, which was perfect color/brightness. When printed at 200°C using standard Prusa printing speeds result is matte finish. When perimeter printing is slowed down to below 20mm/s finish will become semiglossy. Didn't notice any filament differences between layers unlike many cheaper filaments even this is supposed to be "only" +-0.05mm, while many cheaper +-0.02mm filaments have given much less homegenous printing results.|
|Fillamentum||Extrafill Crystal Clear Iceland Blue||XXX g||Very light blue & transparent, like ice. Some customer reviews claimed this filament is brittle, to me it seems normal PLA based on the prints I did. I printed in 220°C, which is in middle of the recommended range - maybe it's brittle if somebody prints this 200°C? Prints were very accurate and surface quality good, as transparent filament could have benefitted printing at top of temperature scale and/or reducing fan to make layers/lines to blend better to each another.|
|Fillamentum||Extrafill Traffic White||XXX g||Finish is glossy (20mm/s & 210°C) and pure white. I printed holder for white Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro and this filament is whiter than those headphones.|
|Fillamentum||Extrafill Luminius Yellow||XXX g||Very good print quality. Raw filament very glossy, but printed objects seem matte or semiglossy and color is not as saturated as raw filament.|
|Fiberlogy||FiberSilk Metallic Green||XXX g||Semiglossy light green, at least with default settings. I haven't tried yet 20mm/s with this one; will it give glossy finish? Also as this is very light green, does glossiness even look nice? Print quality appears to be good based on small test print (=not final opinion). This is softest PLA I have printed, printed parts flex more than typical PLA and can be easily scratched with fingernail. Combined to good bed and layer-to-layer adhesion this might be good feature on some functional printouts. But due to non-existent scratch resistent this may not be good material for speakers etc. which have large homegenous surfaces.|
|Fiberlogy||FiberSilk Metallic Orange||XXX g||Very nice glossy finish, but only if printed slow enough; with default Fiberlogy PLA profile value surfaces are semiglossy at best. Reduce speed to 20mm/s and raise temperature to 220°C and you should get glossy results. Each layer printed evenly on largist print = very high consistency and filament diameter. This is softest PLA I have printed, printed parts flex more than typical PLA and can be easily scratched with fingernail.|
|Fiberlogy||Fibersilk Metallic Burgundy||XXX g||I would say pink, not burgundy. Prints nice glossy (not semiglossy) surface when "External perimeters" is dropped to 20mm/s and Extruder temperature 220°C (defaults for Prusa i3 mk3S are 35mm/s and 210°C, which will result matte/semigloss finish). In test print I could see difference between 20mm/s and 10mm/s; if part contains large differences on layer print time then 15mm/s might be needed to minimize the changes of finish based on changes in model causing different layer printing times. This is softest PLA I have printed, printed parts flex more than typical PLA and can be easily scratched with fingernail.|
|Geetech||Silk Copper||XXX g||Can produce nice results, but very sensitive to printing speed/layer print speed. When small printing speed used produces semigloss results. Layer to layer adhesion is weak.|
|Giantafarm||Green||XXX g||Prints OK, may cause stringiness. Lighter and little more saturated than the other "army green" like filaments. Semigloss finish.|
|KableDirect||Green||XXX g||Very good print quality. Color is army green, but it has small tint towards yellow and it's little brighter. Personal note: this is the one used in most of kitchen stuff.|
|Prusa||Pearl Green||226g||Best green gamut I have found this far. Printing speed and time between layers effects how the final product looks like = slower printing produces darker and more vibrant green, faster printing speed produces more matte finish and decreased saturation.|
|Prusa||Pearl Red||226g||Nice silky smooth (much smoother than Pearl Green) darkish red, maybe burgundy is correct color name.|
|Prusa||Pearl Blue||226g||Not yet used.|
|Prusa||Yellow||226g||Not yet used.|
|Prusa||White||226g||Not yet used.|
|Prusa||Prusament Galaxy Black||XXX g||Not really black, base color is dark gray, some other manufacturers would call it "anthrasite". Additionally there is small amount of glitter. Prints super nicely and surfaces appear smoother than with any other filament I have printed. Only printing issue is low bed adhesion, and larger prints tend to have issues because of that - I have been able to mitigate this mostly by using glue stick and avoiding using textured PEI sheet, as this filament doesn't stick to it well even with glue stick. Prusa i3 mk3S default profiles have "External perimeter" speed 35mm/s, this setting will result matt finish on layers with long printing time (would look nice as well) and can go darker and glossier when printing simplier and smaller layers. So I would recommend 20mm/s for "External perimeter" and "Top solid infill" to have uniform shade despite printtime/speed differences, this will also produce slightly darker gray, which looks better to me.|
|Prusa||Prusament Galaxy Silver||XXX g||Semiglossy light gray with glitter, glitter almost not visible. Printing speed has effect on glossiness - this is quite matt/semigloss finish so I would call it light gray not silver (use <20mm/s for glossy homogenous result for outer perimeters), but no effect to brightness/darkness/hue. Not sure if this is generic or specific to the one roll I have as otherwise Prusament has been pretty similar between different colors: really bad bed adhesion, much worse than other Prusaments, which are pretty bad in general regarding bed adhesion - don't know is it only bed adhesion or is this filament also more prone for warping. This far all prints larger than 75mm on horizontal dimension have failed, while for example I have managed to print 240mm print with other Prusament filaments[Opal green, Galaxy black, Galaxy Purple] (hard to achieve with Prusaments, but with glue stick and super clean bed this was possible), so I can't recommend this filament for any larger prints.|
|Prusa||Prusament Galaxy Purple||XXX g||Prints nicely. Semiglossy purple with glitter. Similar behaviour as Galaxy Black what comes to printing speed and bed adhesion.|
|Prusa||Prusament Opal Green||XXX g||Dark green with very small amount of glitter (almost none). Similar behaviour as Galaxy Black what comes to printing speed and bed adhesion.|
|Prusa||Prusament Gentleman Gray||XXX g||Color is very dark green with blue tint, but saturation is very low. Fast print speeds results matte or semigloss results and layer print time has effect to darkness external perimiter. Low print speeds result semigloss result, with not much difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s print speeds indicating that layer print time differences would not make much difference.|
|Prusa||Prusament Azure Blue||XXX g||Nice saturated light blue. Very even semigloss finish when printed lower speeds, large print speed results matte finish and tone of blue changes based layer print time.|
Similar to Prusament Lipstick Red the printing direction & fan blowing direction have effect on glossiness; from the front surface I cannot see difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s but it's visible on backside, and along Y-axis.
|Prusa||Prusament Mystic Brown||XXX g||The color change effect is super weak, just nice semiglossy dark brown. The color change effect causes that this filament suffers from holes etc. in top layer so that there are clearly different parts in top layers => this filament will benefit greatly from the new feature in PrusaSlicer 2.3 regarding top infill = monotonous. Glossiness depends on printing speed/layer print time. External perimiter surface quality exceptionally good; almost no difference can be seen if printing my speed vs. surface quality test with 22mm/s vs 11mm/s, this indicates really good performance if I limit external perimiter speed to 20mm/s - naturally 44mm/s produces matt result (22mm/s is glossy), so I would recommend to use 20mm/s for external perimiters for high quality homogenous surface finish. Bed adhesion lower than other Prusaments, but not as bad as Galaxy Silver - not recommended for large prints.|
|Prusa||Prusament Lipstick Red||XXX g||Very saturated pure red. High printing speeds results matte finish on external perimiters, which shiness/brightness depends on layer printing speed. At 22mm/s and 11mm/s surface quality turns semi-gloss and layer print time doesn't have much effect on surface quality.|
Noticed interesting effect; on my external perimiter test the vertical surface which did go along X-axis (left-right) had no difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s on front surface (=cooling fan blows to this surface) but the difference could be seen on vertical surface which goes along Y-axis (front-back), and in backside of X-axis vertical surface. I mention this because I have not seen this with other filaments.
|Prusa||Prusament Prusa Orange||XXX g||Bright and saturated orange - similar to PETG orange parts in Prusa I3mk3S in color and glossiness if printed at slow speed. Printing >30mm/s will result matte print, not much difference between 22mm/s and 11mm/s.|
|SainSmart||White||XXX g||Matte white filament. Prints quite nice but suffers from elephant foot more than average filaments. When printed @ 200°C results are matte for 44mm/s, and equally semiglossy for 22mm/s and 11mm/s.Spool identical to Creality Green PLA (transparent little wider than Filamentum, about same width as Prusament.|
|Sunlu||Grass Green||XXX g||Little bit darker than the other "army green" like greens, hue is little from green towards blue. Semiglossy finish. Personal note; this is the one used in computer front dust-screen holder.|
|Sunlu||PLA+ Black||XXX g||Temperatures from cardboard box: nozzle 210-235°C, heated bed required 70-80°C|
|Sunlu||PLA+ Silk Blue||XXX g||Looks very similar to "PLA+ Silk Green" even missing the "Silk" from the name, but also Sunly and Amazon are not the clearest what filament one is buying... Temperatures are same As "PLA+ Silk Green" so I decided to try printing this close to bottom of temperature range @ 215°C and this was mistake: layer adhesion was not at all same level as "PLA+ Silk Green" @ 230°C. Surface finish was shiny and filament looks very good, beautiful light blue. As filament was not good for low temperature printing I decided to print 2nd test print, but this time at maximum recommended temperature 235°C. And it seems layer to layer adhesion was better, but still not "perfect" even at higher temperature. Surface finish is glossy and color still nice saturated light blue. Like "PLA+ Silk Green" filament is softer and more flexible than typical PLAs. Seems that based on the Sunly PLA+ Blue and Silk Green that these Sunlu PLA+ filaments are worth checking other colors as well; are they are good as Silk Green or otherwise good but lacking layer-to-layer adhesion like Blue?|
|Sunlu||PLA+ Silk Green||XXX g||Temperatures from cardboard box: nozzle 210-235°C, heated bed required 70-80°C. Color is light green, almost light cyan. Surface finish is shiny. Test print was done 230°C & 75°C; 44mm/s and 22mm/s don't have much difference, and 11mm/s was clearly darker. Some reviews complained about layer and bed adhesion, but at my settings neither is problem. Filament is more flexible and softer than normal PLA, makes also different sound when dropped to table for example, also possible to scratch with fingernail - Filament properties very similar to Fiberlogy FiberSilk filaments.|
|Sunly||PLA+ Silk Red||XXX g||Physical properties like Silk Green. Color is saturated red, not as saturated as Prusament Lipstick Red but very close. Surface finish is always shiny, on test sample 44mm/s and 22mm/s are similar (22mm/s very little darker) and 11mm/s was clearly darker.|
|Sunly||PLA+ Silk Gold||XXX g||Physical properties like Silk Green. Color is like gold and finish always shiny. If trying to imitate gold color then it's worth to note that slower print speed will cause darker end results, and to imitate gold the 44mm/s on test sample was closest to gold in my eye - so in practice very hard to make things look like gold as small and/or complicated objects will not print this high speeds.|
I haven't used much yet PETG. Warping is much worse than PLA, and in most large prints at least the corners tend to "lift off" with PLA. PETG requires higher temperatures so without enclosure it would be really hard to print large prints like speaker parts without warping. I really would like to use PETG as there really aren't many glossy PLA filaments.
|Basicfill||Signal White||XXX g||Matte white, not 100% white, very very small warm tint.|
|Basicfill||Transparent Blue||XXX g||Not yet tried|
|Basicfill||Transparent Green||XXX g||Dried properly before printing, and was surprised for this cheap PETG: printed very well, not any kind of issues, there was not even warping on my first print, which was 15 hour printout. Colour is light green and surface quality was good. Finish is shiny. I used 4 perimiters, which removed the issue if seeing the infill, I can see infill via bottom and when using 2 layers..|
|Enotepad||White||XXX g||Not tried yet|
|Prusa||Prusament Galaxy Black||XXX g||Not yet used|
|Prusa||Prusament Carmine Red||XXX g|
|Prusa||Prusament Jet Black||XXX g|
|Prusa||Prusament Neon Green||XXX g||Very transparent, the inner fill shows through perimiters - I don't know situation when I would like the inner fill shown, so maybe using 8 or 16 perimiters needed to hide the inner fill. Need to be dried before use, high tendendy to have issues otherwise. Color is very light yellowish green.|
|Prusa||Prusament Ultramarine Blue||XXX g||Very nice and vibrant color, somewhat transparent. Need to be dried before use, high tendency to have issues otherwise.|
|Prusa||Transparent||This may or may not be same than then Prusament Transparent PETG. Not yet tried.|
|SainSmart||Pro-3 Blue||XXX g||Prints very nicely, and doesn't need as badly drying as other PETG I have tried (of course beneficial to dry filament before printing). Surface can be very nicely glossy or semiglossy based on printing temperature. Color is "annoying", very vibrant baby blue - maybe if one likes baby blue... color doesn't at all match to the color on Amazon/eBay photos on advertisements (those tend to be something which generally is called Royal Blue)|
|SainSmart||Pro-3 Lila||XXX g||Not yet printed|
|SainSmart||Pro-3 Black||XXX g||Not yet printed|
|Sunlu||Blue||XXX g||Not tried yet|
|Sunlu||White||XXX g||Not tried yet|
|Sunlu||Green||XXX g||This is "neon green" unlike the Prusament which claims to be. Glossy finish. Material is quite flexible compared to Prusament PETGs.|
I haven't yet really used flexible materials.
|Fillamentum||Flexfill 98A Luminous Green||XXX g||Prints nicely. Similar neon green as Sunlu PETG. Don't use with smooth bed, it sticks too much and will tear off the surface.|
PETG prints much better if it's first dried about 10h with food dehydrator. For flexible it's mandatory, even directly out of the package the one I tried didn't print well, but after 10 hours in dryer it printed really well.
My dryer needed little "spacer" to make space for the spool. In some models you can just the "net" from few layers, but in this model "spacer" was better option. TODO: add photos