3D printing - Filament

This page contains my notes from different filaments. As my main usage is fairly large parts, I had only ONCE printed with the 0.4mm nozzle, before I started printing parths for the Voron V2.4. With Prusa I have printed everything with 0.6mm nozzle. With Voron I have mainly printed with 0.6mm nozzle and I use also 0.8mm, 1.0mm nozzles, and rarely 0.4mm and 1.4mm nozzles. So my user experience doesn't reflect to someone printing small figurines etc.

I have printed almost everything with PLA. This is because of warping; when printing large parts filling almost whole printer bed warping is major issue even with PLA. There are some nice colors I really like in PETG, but atleast without enclosure I have not found reliable way to print large prints with PETG.
EDIT: After moving from Prusa i3 to Voron V2.4 I have moved to mostly printing ABS. Once I got chamber temperature to above 55°C, by adding fans to transfer heat under the bed to chamber, I have been able to print large prints with ABS.

If nothing else mentioned results are based on PrusaSlicer default settings for filament type e.g. "Generic PLA" OR filament specific settings if they exist. If manufacturer recommended temperature differs from setting then I typically adjust the temperature. Also if I'm printing something, which is not going to displayed in it's final use I tend to change temperature few times during printing to see does temperature have which kind of effect to surface quality.

ABS/ASA

I have tested lots of ABS/ASA filaments to find the best ones for me. Everything is compromise :) can't always find good filament in good colors, and sometimes when one finds perfect color filament other qualities suck. Naturally the list is never final... Also this is for my use cases; large prints in 55-60°C chamber, many filaments in the list are not usable without quite high chamber temperature.

Black: Fillamentum ABS Traffic Black (Alternatives: more matte finish and higher temperature resistance: Filament-PM ABS-T Black / Fiberlogy ABS Onyx for "sparkly" use cases)
Dark green: Devil Design ASA Racing Green (Alternatives: Filament-PM ABS Petrol Green, Formfutura ABS Dark Green)
Medium green: Filament-PM ABS Green (Alternative: Fillamentum ABS Turquoise Green)
Light green: Filamentworld ABS+ Neon Green* (Alternative: Filament-PM ABS-T Yellowgreen)
Yellow: Filament-PM ABS Yellow (Alternative: Extrudr ASA Yellow, slightly less glossy alternative)
"Effect color": Filament-PM ABS-T Orange, Filament-PM ABS-T Pink, Extruder ASA Neon Yellow
"Metal": Formfutura Easyfil ABS Bronze (would prefer gold, but haven't found good ABS/ASA gold - Alternative Filament-PM ABS-T Copper)
Blue: Filamentworld ABS+ Blue (Alternatives; lighter Fillamentum ABS Sky Blue, darker Extrudr ABS Blue)
Gray/Silver: Fillamentum ASA Vertigo Gray (Alternative Filament-PM ABS Silver)
White:Fillamentum ABS Traffic White (alternative: Fillamentum ASA Snow White, not as white, does not print as well, more layer to layer variance)

ManufacturerTypeSpool
Weight
Comments
3DJAKEniceABSXXX gRecommendations: nozzle 235-255°C, bed 100°C.
NOTE1: Bed adhesion is excessive; I have ruined any smooth PEI I have used without gluestick, it will tear off pieces from PEI sheet
NOTE2: In discussion on Voron Discord it has been few times mentioned that this filament is same as Formfutura's TitanX/re-Titan, and to that seems to be the case, or at least black and blue are 100% identical in everything.
Dark Blue: First ever ABS I printed and it printed fine with first layer 255°C & 105°C and rest 245°C & 100°C. Color is nice dark blue, finish is different ABS has own "look", glossy finish but different than glossy PLAs.
Black: Similar to dark blue. Black is black, not dark grey, no color tint. Finish is semiglossy.
Yellow: Color is darker yellow and very saturated. Finish is semigloss or matte or something between them. Doesn't print technically as nice as dark blue; when layer print time is large print looks slightly different and layer might expand in X and Y axles - this issue is mostly fixed when printing multiple different parts at same time to harmonize the layer print times.
Green: Prints nicely like other niceABS filaments. Color is quite ugly "mustard yellow tinted to green" and finish is semiglossy. Filament has tendency to change shade based on layer print time. Will not buy 2nd time, one of the ugliest colors I have seen.
Bronze: Again, print nicely. Color is some sort of "metallic light brown", hard to see "bronze" in it. Also this filament has tendency to change shade based on layer print time. Will not buy 2nd time.
Dark Grey: Finally, one filament which claims to be dark gray and is not "slightly darker than same brand silver filament". Prints same as other niceABS filaments. With copper nozzle 245/240°C nozzle and 100°C is best. Also 90°C bed can be used but like any other ABS any increase in chamber temperature improves print quality.
Red: Nice saturated red with typically semigloss finish of 3DJake niceABS.
Orange: Orange is medium orange, not dark, not light. Finish between semiglossy and matte. Print quality excellent, first 3DJake niceABS print on 57°C chamber, which these don't require, but also this worked well. Nothing to complain in the print.
3DJAKEASAXXX gRecommendation: nozzle 210-250°C, bed 60-100°C. Does not print as well as niceABS. For example 200mm bar with 10mm width and 17mm heigth raises from smooth PEI bed, where at same conditions (105°C bed, 46°C chamber) any of the ABS would not suffer from the same.
Dark grey: Disappointment when compared to niceABS. Printed in identical conditions as all ABS and this one didn't stick to smooth PEI bed and 16.5mm part (the Voron AfterBurner blower housing, what I have used ABS test print) started to lift off from bed after 10mm. Color is dark grey, and finish is semiglossy. Filament also had more layer to layer variance than other filaments. Will not buy 2nd time. On positive side "color" is dark gray, not just typical "little darker than silver filament but barely medium grey and definitely not dark grey" what we typically get.
EDIT: With Voron prints better, no warping issues with 50°C chamber.
Light grey: "Color" is light gray as promised, finish is semiglossy. Printing quality OK, but has similar issues as all white filaments.
Light Blue: Very nice semiglossy light blue. 245°C was too much, specially af fan was not enabled before layer.
Light Green: Quite OK looking light green - niceABS is really ugly and when comparing these two, this is pure green, and the niceABS is more yellow. Print quality was very good @ 240°C.
Black: Semiglossy black. Expected to print nicer, but not even close to generic black ABS or 3DJAKE's niceABS. Also I find it weird that material seems much more harder; and by this I mean that finished part is not as flexible as ABS part, and "sound" when hitting part or dropping part to surface is similar to brittle PLA. I somehow assumed that ABS and ASA are about the same.
Amazon basicsABSXXX gIn Voron Discord some people have been warning that Amazon picks up whatever filament manufacturer randomly. In my limited experience this is not the case, I have ordered Few times Dark Gray (and black but it would be very difficult to notice differences in black) and it has been same every time.
Dark gray: Filament in spool looks promising, dark gray is really dark grey and not "slightly darker than same filament manufacturer silver". However this ended up being "darkish" gray, not as dark as 3DJake's dark gray. Settings in spool 235-255°C nozzle and 90-110°C bed. Printed very nicely 250°C and 100°C (I was surpriced I assume this is low quality filament), and perimeters were very even and layer printing time differences didn't create issues. "Color" was dark gray, not as dark as 3DJake's dark gray, but very close. Finish is semiglossy. Very fine looking filament, didn't expect much but seems to be good one. I also noticed that 3 first layers were darker and finish was more glossy, this might indicate that filament has little tendency to change tone/finish, so better be careful with very short layer times and enable fan already from 2nd layer, if bottom of part suffers from different shade of gray.
Black: Semiglossy black - black is dark, for example difference to eSun's ABS+ "black" is large. Bed adhesion was not great, otherwise printed very well and produced good parts.
Blue: Light medium saturated blue, other manufacturers call this "sky blue", "azure blue" etc. Finish is semiglossy. Test part seems perfect when printed in 54°C chamber with 50% fan on StealthBurner.
AzureFilmABS-PXXX gRecommendation: nozzle 230-260°C, bed 90-120°C.
Green: Printed nicely using 250°C nozzle and 105/100°C bed and no fan. Color is low saturation green and finish is semiglossy. Much better quality than AzureFilm's ASA, which had various issues.
Blue: Prusa print was not great. Need to reprint test parts with Voron to comment.
EDIT: With Voron Bed adhesion is pretty bad, for example with the Von Wange black PEI, which usually has best adhesion really struggled. Results were also not great with Voron. So, I did full tuning process, and found reason why with "normal" ABS profile this doesn't print nice: the optimum Extrusion Multiplier (EM) seems to be 0.88!!! (this is with LGX Lite, Rapido, 0.6mm CHT @ 250°C). After tuning parts come out OK, but there are still too many issues e.g. layer to layer variation higher than I would like. Considering how weird blue is, and how bad white is and how good green was this ABS-P "family" seems to be all over the place...
Black: Not yet printed.
White: It has been said that white filaments are worst quality - and that might have some truth in it... One of the worst bed adhesions of ABS/ASA-filaments. Filament is "gummy" and sticks to brass nozzle quite badly and sticky filament causes similar problems as PETG when printing with too small first layer height.
EDIT: Decided to check with enclosed ABS machine (Voron), and this filament still sucks. With 51°C chamber part stayed in the bed even Z-offset was little too big. However this is still not usable; on the test part (Voron AfterBurner blower housing) whole layer midpart shrunk on layer (or above it) where it has long layer print time, and it's somehow relevant to the large amount of heat put to that layer. Not gonna going to buy again...
EDIT2: Last and final try with Voron after installation of under bed fans, which raise chamber temperature to 57-58°C. And the bed adhesion is still problem; zero change that the text in my test part (Voron Afterburner front piece) works, all small detail doesn't stick in bed and we lose half of text. The higher chamber temperature makes it possible to use constant 45% parts cooling fan, and it helped; the printed part looks OK (not great, but not bad), and gone is the issue where one very long layer print time caused significant difference is gone.
AzurefilmASAXXX gRecommendation: nozzle 240-260°C, bed 90-110°C. Prints nicely, layer to layer variance little too big for my taste thou.
Green: Comments with Prusa and ghetto enclosure: Not sure why but requires minimal fan (15-18%) or otherwise got "bubbly surface" thou not clear why as it only happened to right side when fan was complately off, and only at right side of bed. Also the layer to layer variation was smaller with 0% fan. Color is some sort of pastel green, and finish is matte. Not keen on buying this filament again.
EDIT: (Voron comment) Used this to print for parents the fan to suck the "mold smell" from basement to outdoors instead smell (and whatever comes with it...) going to indoors. Printed nice with 0.8mm nozzle and 25mm3 with Phaetus Dragon High Flow, and print came out OK (don't expect perfection with mentioned settings, done 100% for speed and durability/strengt). Time will show if the green fades, it's on South-East wall so getting some hours of direct sunlight every day.
Blue: Light blue. Finish is semiglossy, but from much closer to matte than glossy. Test part printed nicely and printed part is very smooth. On ~7mm height there is slight difference, so this filament is not immune of changing layer print time.
Black: Not yet printed.
Devil DesignABS+~250gRecommendation 230-240°C and bed 90-100°C. Quite low temperatures for ABS+. Used 240°C and 110°C bed and 55°C chamber temperature.
Requires increasing retraction from the usual 0.25mm to 0.4-0.6mm and enabling SuperSlicer option "wipe while retracting" and setting "extra wipe for external perimeters" set to 1mm.
EDIT: Tried printing yellow 250°C and 0.5mm retraction and that is "optimum" at least with yellow (this was with Rapido). This is little weird as this is way past manufacturer recommendation.
Aluminium: Color is silver/aluminium like with quite glossy finish (not same level glossy as PLA Silk filaments). Filament may contain small amount of glitter, something is shimmering in the filament. Whatever it is makes the printed part little more metal look like.
Super Blue: Very saturated medium/dark blue with semiglossy finish.
Bright Yellow: Similar to my favourite yellow; 3DJake niceABS. Very saturated dark/medium yellow, slightly lighter shade of yellow than 3DJake.
Devil DesignASA~250gRecommendation 230-240°C and bed 90-100°C. Weirdly low temperature for ASA. Used 240°C and 110°C bed and 55°C chamber temperature. Prints with all Devil Design filaments were very stringy. I assumed they were wet from factory but 14h @ 70°C didn't change the results. So these require some special print settings. Requires increasing retraction from the usual 0.25mm to 0.4-0.6mm and enabling SuperSlicer option "wipe while retracting" and setting "extra wipe for external perimeters" set to 1mm.
Racing Green: Filament in spool is the most nicest "British" racing green. Printed part is little lighter and less saturated; I would say just saturated semigĺossy dark green. However if smoothed using acetone this could go as something I could say racing green. Print quality was OK, test part is very good and bed adhesion good.
Green: Despite using the specific retraction settings did have some strings. Color is the typical green ASA; boring low saturation green, semiglossy finish. Racing green definitely nicer.
Super Blue: Prints OK with the "Devil Design settings", no strings. No complaints on print quality on test part. Color is between medium and light blue, quite high saturation - so "lightly darker azure blue" :)... Finish is semiglossy, closer to matte than glossy. Filament seems to have tendency to not have consistent finish, e.g. surface finish changes if fan is blowing harder (e.g. when part blower is starter little too early before overhang/bridge).
Navy Blue: Great...this is stringy even with the extra settings. I'm really hesitant to print any colder as the maximum temp of 240°C is really low temperature for a ASA-filament.
Color is very dark blue. Finish semiglossy.
Black: Black (not the darkest black, or lighter black). Semiglossy finish, very close to matte. Printed otherwise nicely, but in test part the layer in middle, which has longer print time, did cause issues to the part external perimeters.
eSunABS+230g/###gRecommendation: nozzle 220-260°C. Prints great without fan or with 18% fan using 255/245°C nozzle & 100/95°C bed.
Green: Filamentum calls their green "Turquoise Green", while it's one of more pure greens, and this one could have used "Turquoise Green" as it's name - so the blue tint is present on this filament. Finish is matte. Color is little weird, how viewer and light are arranged has effect how the color is perceived, so for example if your product has parts printed on different orientations next to each another differences can be seen. Easy to print and print quality is good.
EDIT: The prints I have done with Voron look super nice if one likes matte filaments, this is definitely good choice.
Pine green: This was disappointment as on spool and on websites looked great. In real life it is low saturation matte filament. Also consideting that eSun PLA+ is very nice glossy "British racing green"; one of my most favorite from all filaments available. The inconsistency between different filament types and same branding is huge.
Peak green: Matte light green, kind of "pastel" color but little too vibrant to be called as pastel.
Blue: Matte medium/dark blue. Most of eSun ABS+ is very boring, but this could be useful for something as it's quite saturated.
Light Blue: Matte baby blue, kind of "pastel" color, but like Peak Green little too vibrant to categorize as pastel.
Purple: Matte purple. Most of eSun ABS+ filaments are boring, but this one is very saturated and could be interesting when combined to some lighter colors (Peak Green and Yellow comes to mind).
Magenta: Magenta? Dark pink with matte/semiglossy finish.
Red: Maybe ugliest red filament I have ever seen; matter low saturated red - looks like normal plastic would have been 5 years outdoors in Arizona... Prints the same as majority of eSun ABS+.
Fire engine red: Dark red (medium saturation), semiglossy finish. One of the less boring eSun ABS+ colors, could consider buying again.
Brown: Matte brown, prints nice.
Yellow: Matte light medium saturated yellow. Doesn't print as nice as other eSun ABS+. The layer print duration affects visual appearance and external perimiters on layer with longer print time clearly differentiate from others.
Gray: Nice matte grey with slight hint of blue tint. On typical low quality indoor lightning it can be really weird if expectation is gray, mostly looks blueish gray, but on high quality 5000-6000K CRI>85% lightning typically OK. Shade is "darkish", I would not call this "dark gray" but not as flat looking as "typical gray filaments". I assumed that all eSun ABS+ filaments prints the same, but I was wrong; this one has worse bed adhesion than Magenta(=pink) and Fire engine red. And this was not just on time event it happened both with textured and smooth beds while magenta printed very nicely with exact same conditions. In addition there was shade differene based on layer print time (my test print is Voron Afterburner [a]_blower_housing_front.stl and clear difference on layer where the large horizontal surface changes the layer print time)
Silver: Matte light gray with warmish tone (tinted towards red/yellow), can't stretch my imagination to call this silver... Print quality seems OKish, little difference on layers based on layer print time, otherwise normal eSun ABS+.
Natural: This ABS+ natural is quite white, not so yellowish what natural ABS usually is. Finish is matte. Printed OK 250°C and 100°C bed, not great just OK, as small detail didn't attach to bed and there were slight differences when layer printtime changed radically.
Black: Matte black ABS. Prints as nice as other eSun ABS+ filaments. In my generic ABS profile I have first 3 layers without fan; that is NOT USABLE setting with this filament, because the 3 first layer external perimeters will become semi-glossy and much deeper black than the layers above cooled by the fan.
eSunABSXXX gRecommendation: nozzle 2420-260°C. Not as good as ABS+, for example layer printtime has effect to color.
Green: Darkish green with slight blue tint (=turquoise). Semiglossy finish.
ExtrudrDuraPro ABSXXX gRecommended temperatures are lower than usual: 210-240°C nozzle and bed 100-110°C (3DJake has these wrong).
Anthracite: "Color" is kind of darkish medium gray (in general these anthracite filaments are big joke, none of them is anthracite...), with semiglossy finish. Print quality otherwise OK, but print layer duration caused slight defect to vertical walls (typical to most filaments, can be seen in about halfway of Voron Afterburner Blower Housing Front).
Edit: With Voron 2.4 forgot the temperature recommendation, and found out that at 250°C the filament "smokes" or "steams" like one would have wet filament (this was not the case; I dried filament whole ~16h before printing). To my surprise print turned out nice, but finish was much more shiny and color darker. However overhangs curve upwards and look really rough. So 250°C is definitely not good... Also 90°C was not enough for bed; part detached from the bed midprint...
EDIT2: So with Voron 2nd try was with nozzle @ 230°C first layer and @ 225°C other layers and 100°C bed resulted decent results, but filament seems to be very sensitive layer printing duration changes no matter what settings or which printer = not a good filament.
Black: Not yet printed
Blue: Dark blue, semiglossy finish. Extreme high print quality, no layer to layer differences, almost immune to layer print time variation caused differences.
ExtrudrDuraPro ASAXXX gRecommended nozzle 215-240°C and 100-110°C bed (notice! Jake3D webpages have these wrong). Printed very nice at 240°C.
Neon Green: Pastel light green or mint - would not call "neon". Kind of matte finish, but when you look it closer it's semiglossy. Printed nicely and the color lacks contrast which hides layer lines quite well. When layers print times change radically causes small difference to layer size. I was personally very happy to this filament; the color hides print failures and at same time the filament performs very well. On all prints I did from this filament I was positive surpriced every time. Also I didn't have any warping problems, but I made all my prints in 56-57°C chamber temperature and I have not yet printed anything in "normal" 48-50°C chamber temperature. Layer adhesion seems very good, bed adhesion is not super strong (when printed to black PEI bed it does not cause issues to remove) and still no lifted corners and warping, indicates that warping in 56-57°C is very low.
White: As expected white filament = no great. Creating white filament requires so much additives into filament that printability suffers. Printing test part @ 245°C and 110°C bed; small detail (Voron R-inside piece and similar for O-letter) didn't stick to bed. Aaaaand in addition layer to layer consistency is not there. So, all in all; typical white filament... Color is almost pure white (little yellowish tone) and finish is matte.
Neon Yellow: Bright yellow, one might call it neon yellow. Yellow has very slight greenish tint. Finish is semiglossy/matte. On test print there is slight change on surface quality when layer print time radically changes.
Yellow: Quite nice yellow, quite saturated and similar to my favourite yellows (e.g. 3DJake niceABS) this is not bright but darker yellow. Finish is semiglossy/matte.
Black: Finish is semiglossy/matte. When compared to glossy and dark blacks e.g. Fillamentum ASB Traffic Black this filament is clearly "brighter black" and less glossy.
Prints very nicely at 240°C on hot chamber; no layer to layer variance and quite immune to layer print time variance.
FiberlogyABS plus268g/302g/326g WTF?Recommendations: nozzle 250-265°C. Bed adhesion very weak or warping very strong or both, definitely will not buy again this one. In addition of bed housing being weak, also this filament warps a lot in low chamber temperatures. However with high chamber temperature (55°C and above) seems to work well. I don't understand why Fiberlogy advertises this filament like this:
"A multifunctional material for desktop 3D printing, recommended especially for prototyping models thanks to its special properties such as increased hardness and reduced process shrinkage. What is more, printing will be easier and faster compared to standard ABS and does not require printing in a closed chamber. "
Maybe Yellow is just worse than other colors, hard to say as I haven't tried other colors.
Yellow: Colour is yellow (not very saturated, but does not look weak either), and finish is matte.
FiberlogyABS268g/302g/326g WTF?Recommendation 250-265°C nozzle and 90-110°C. Had bad experiences with Prusa and standard Voron V2.4, but after modifying so that I can reach 55°C chamber temperature this filament works really well.
Onyx: Got really nice results @ 270°C (Phaetus Rapido); very dark gray (not black) with semiglossy finish (closer to glossy than matte). Would be otherwise similar to Prusament Galacy Black, but glitter particles are smaller size and there is less of them.
Black: Black is not very black, one of the lightest color black ABS. Semiglossy finish. No layer to layer variance, and immune to layer printtime variations. So sad that ugly filaments print the best...
Graphite: Test print did print without issues @ 245°C (Phaetus Dragonfly). This is just middle grey with semiglossy finish.
Blue: Baby blue/pastel blue/light blue with turquoise tint, quite low saturation. Semiglossy finish. Website spool picture is very different blue than in real life (also spool looks more turquoise). Printed OK, not great. The test part layers I printed 30mm/s seem little fuzzy, so 265°C is maybe too hot.
FiberlogyEasy ABS268g/302g/326g WTF?Recommendations: 230-255°C. Filament is transparent, interesting to see how parts turn out...and oh boy this filament prints very nicely (even better than eSun ABS+, really really good) and printed result is litte transparent as well. Printed parts are so smooth; smooth perimeters and really nice top and bottom surfaces - I have parts with top surface ironing and I can't see or feel which surface is top and which bottom. I was suspicious of mechanical qualities and strength, but they are very good even filament is transparent, easy to print, looking nice and on top of all quite cheap. One of the best filaments I have found this far (2021/07), would be nice to have some more colors.
Transparent Light green: Color is low saturation light green (slight yellowish tint). Infill can be clearly seen. Surface finish is matte or semiglossy or something in between.
Navy Blue Transparent: Very saturated dark blue. As it's so dark it blocks so much more light than the light green that infill is difficult/impossible to see 4 perimiters or 5 solid layers.
Transparent Burgundy: Printed very nice @ 245°C and 70% fan in 54°C chamber. These color names... to me the color is "just saturated dark red", I cannot see there hue what burgundy refers to. Surface finish is really nice, filament is somewhat transparent, but not so much as the the Light Green where the infill can be seen. This slight transparency makes the parts look super nice. The outer surface is semiglossy.
Pure Transparent: Not glass like transparent, more like transparent white. Infill can be clearly seen through 4 perimeters or 5 solid layers. Doesn't look like to have any color tint. This should work nicely as diffusor for led lights, haven't tried that yet, but may use it for Voron 2.4 led lights.
FiberlogyASA268g/302g/326g WTF?Recommendation: nozzle 255-270°C, bed 90-110°C.
Light green: Low saturation light green (similar yellow tint found in 3DJake's niceABS green, but lighter color) with semiglossy finish. Printed part high quality @ 265°C. The test part large layer print time change is barely visible.
Olive green: Wow, super printing quality, nothing to complain in printing quality. Color is olive green/army green, finish is glossy when printed at 260°C. Generally I hate matte filaments, but for this color I wished that this would be matte. Also filament
Filament PMABS225gRecommended 230-250°C nozzle and 100-110°C bed. Spool is same as Prusa's "Pearl" filaments have. Filament-PM tries to warn that this is somehow difficult to print, but with Voron it print very nicely.

Green: Wow, absolute best green ABS; saturated glossy pure green. Not light green or dark green, just medium green. Printed first prints at 245°C nozzle and 100°C bed with 33% fan, and results were excellent. Lower bed temp would be enough, but I think better keep it at 100°C to maintain 50°C chamber temperature with Voron as this is plain ABS, no ABS+ so this really requires warm chamber to print.
Petrol Green: Dark green tinted with blue. Finish is glossy. Very nice filament if you have suitable use for the color.
Yellow: Bright yellow, high saturation. Finish semiglossy/glossy. Otherwise nice filament, but seems to suffer from layer print time differences (test part 7.5mm looks pretty bad).
Filament-PMABS-T225gRecommended 230-250°C nozzle and 100-110°C bed. Spool is same as Prusa's "Pearl" filaments have. Filament PM says that this is hard to print, but printed 240°C nozzle and 110°C bed (to increase chamber temperature) and print quality is at best level (on par with Filamentum ABS for example), minimal or no variations on Z-layers even on my test print few layers print multiple minutes while rest of layers are about 1 minute. Sadly colors suck in ABS-T "series" of filaments from Filament PM, this kind of print quality would be interesting on other colors as well. EDIT: Seems more colors have been added to ABS-T "family", so it's better now but normal green and blue are for example missing still (2022 April).
EDIT2: Filament-PM says "more difficult to print and adhesion to the heatbed (closed chamber recommended even more)" and at 55-60°C chamber temperature this filament prints extremely nice. However bed adhesion is problematic and for small parts and parts with sharp corners in first layer it's best to add brim. Specially problematic is small detail on first layer, it just doesn't stick. I have not tried ABS-T in textured sheet, but based on how low bed adhesion is on smoot PEI sheets I don't even want to try textured sheet. Large prints are not problem as long as chamber temp stays above 55C during whole print.

Copper: Color is not exactly copper, but some kind of light brown. Bottom surface was quite matte, but perimeters are semiglossy as well as top layer.
Silver: Better than other brand "silver" filaments, which are generally "light gray". This one is quite shiny light gray, definitely best "silver" from all ABS-filaments tried. EDIT: noticed when printing larger parts there are shade differences in filament (like plastic would have not been properly mixed before extruding the 1.75mm filament from it.
Yellowgreen: Nice saturated light green, not very yellowish. Semiglossy finish. Test part was perfect. Bed adhesion OK, not great.
Orange: Nice very saturated pure orange with semiglossy finish. Due to low bed adhesion test print text letter insides failed, when used yellow PEI, most likely better only use with black PEI.
Black: The darkes ABS found yet! (writing this 2022-04-30). Very dark and very glossy black. Prints super nicely. When printing in hot chamber (over 60°C) I used 80% part cooling fan and overhangs best ever seen.
Gold: Quite beautiful slightly transparent,not so shiny dark gold. Filament has small amount of glitter in it, very small particle size and small amount. Could be great looking filament, but the shade of gold varies based on how temperature is "pushed" to plastic, leaving surface finish so that it has various levels of darkness OR whole thing caused by the partial transparency. However bed adhesion is very challenging; printing with this filament was the first time with Voron I never needed to use glue stick :( -- with this filament I add little extra to underbed fans to get chamber temperature as high as it goes.
Pink: Color is pink, really saturated. Finish is semiglossy/glossy. Really nice filament, but color is rarely suitable.
White: "Color" is pure white, not tinted to yellow ("warm") or blue ("cold"). Finish is matte. Too much layer to layer differences. Also in test print the layer in middle with lots longer print time causes X- and Y-axle extension. When external perimeters are printed at 20-30mm/s the surface finish becomes better and layer to layer differences seem to be smaller.
Transparent: xxx
Filament-PMASA225gRecommended: Nozzle 240-260°C and bed 100-110°C.
Blue: Light blue. Semiglossy finish. Printed test part with 0.6mm nozzle and test print worked well. Bed adhesion was not great (255°C and 110°C), remember this in future prints.
Black: xxxx
Filament-PMPC/ABS225gI have not yet tried the filament. According to Filament-PM 240-260°C nozzle, 100-110°C bed and needs "Magigoo PC". Should be really tough material and able to handle 115°C. Interesting to see does this REALLY need Magigoo or will ordinary PEI or PEI+gluestick work. Also it could work with the BuildTak surface.
FilamentworldABS??? gManufacturer recommends 220-240°C and 90-100°C. Temperature tower was brittle at 225°C, 235°C and 245°C, but was good 255°C and 265°C. Also there was no drawback using higher temp, even overhangs were exactly same fro between 225°C to 255°C, and even 265°C was only marginally worse. Bed adhesion seems to be weak, very weak - brim needed, and don't even dream of textured PEI. All colors had issues in large layer print time change, unless I cranked the fan up to 60-70%, which is really high fan for ABS & Stealthburner combo.
Neon green: Printed first test part 250°C nozzle and 110°C bed (BuildTak yellow PEI). Even having perfect first layer squish (just installed Klicky and Z-calibrate) corners lifted a little bit. Chamber temp was high and fan speed was low, so most likely it's not because of warping but bed adhesion is weak. Sooo, next prints with brim. Color is very saturated light green, and finish semiglossy.
Grass green: Decided to try manufacturer recommendations and printed test part 230°C. Mistake, bed adhesion, non existent and all small pieces in "VORON"-text were just flying around. Color is less saturated than the Neon green one, and finish semiglossy, but more matte than 250°C test print with Neon green.
Neon yellow: Very brigth yellow. Semiglossy finish.
Neon orange: Very bright and saturated orange. Semiglossy finish. Had more issues than other colors on the layer in test part, with large layer print time difference.
Fiery red: Medium (not dark, not light, but close to light) red with semiglossy finish.
Sky blue: Color is saturated blue, not light blue, not dark blue, so "medium" blue. Finish is semiglossy. Very nice blue.
Magenta: Color is saturated magenta, similar to blue, not dark or light. Finish is semiglossy.
FillamentumABS Extrafill230gGenerally: Most ABS print nicely, but this one is on it's own category. Very little variation between layers even layer print time varies. All Filamentum ABS colors I have tried are strong, and no boring matte finish.
Turquoise green: Wow! Strong darkish green, with semiglossy finish. 10/10!
Cobalt blue: Dark low saturation blue with semiglossy finish.
Sky blue: Very nice light blue. Reminds me of Prusament Azure Blue.
Yellow: This one didn't print as nicely as other colors, needed to drop temperature (235°C) and increase fan. Color is very nice, very similar to 3DJake's Yellow, which I like very much; thou little brighter but as saturated or even little more saturated
Traffic Black: Glossy black like one would assume from Filamentum's prefix "Traffic". Good bed adhesion, but not excessive like with 3DJake niceABS.
FillamentumASA Extrafill230gRecommended 240-255°C and 80-105°C. Printed 250°C and 100°C and print quality was very good like all Fillamentums.
Green grass: Very mild olive green. Otherwise good filament, but when layer print times changes radically there is visible difference.
Vertigo Grey: Matt light gray with glitter. Very similar look as Prusament Galaxy Black (thou it's more dark grey and this one is darker).
Traffic black: Haven't opened the package yet...
Vivid Pink: Printed 250°C first layer, 245°C otherwise with 105°C bed. On test print the small pieces (Voron word R center, center of O letters) didn't stick to bed - larger parts didn't have that problem. And also in the test part there was visible issue where layer print time is longer; external walls were effected. Color is very saturated pink and finish is almost matte, just very small sheen if light is coming from correct angle.
Snow White: Bright pure white with semiglossy finish. Prints weird, adjusting extrusion multiplier by top surface method resulted 0.870, maybe even lower, didn't have squares below 0.87... With 0.870EM external perimetrs have slight layer to layer variation. Filament contains some nasty additives, printed Formfutura Bronze ABS after this and first layer has lots of weird white stuff. Doesn't sound that great, but best ABS/ASA I have found this far (2022-05-13).
FillamentumHIPS230gHIPS is not exactly ABS, but prints similar so put this here... 245-250°C nozzle and 90-100°C.
Traffic Black: Not typical "Traffic", only semiglossy which is close to matte. Dark black. Test print was otherwise OK, but the layers with longer print time caused issues. Material is very hard, e.g. when printed dropped to table the sound is much higher pitch than ABS or even PLA.
FormfuturareForm rTitan BlackXXX gRecommendation: nozzle 240-260°C, bed 90-110°C,0-30% fan. Have seen in Voron discord mentions that hard to detach from bed if one let's bed to cool. I don't remember problems, but based on prints I found it seems I only used textured sheet with Prusa and Voron. So need to observe this when printing next time with this filament using smooth PEI sheet.
FormfuturaEasyFilXXX gFormfutura instructs to use 225-270°C nozzle, 90-110°C bed and gives weird Yes/No recommendation for enclosure.
Dark green: Dark green as promised. Finish semiglossy. Print quality excellent with Voron.
Orange: Bright orange. Finish between matter and semiglossy. Print quality wasn't good, layer print time differences = size differences. Needs also extrusion multiplier lowered. Need to try with chamber temp 58-60°C if this would work better.
Silver: Light gray with moderate amount of glitter. Finish between semiglossy and matte. Print quality excellent with Voron.
Bronze: xxxx
FormfuturaTitanXXXX gFormfutura instructs to use 240-260°C nozzle, 70-100°C bed and gives weird Yes/No recommendation for enclosure. Extreme bed adhesion, do not use with smooth PEI; will rip pieces from PEI... Good filaments, print very nicely. Did buy only once as these were same as 3DJake's niceABS blue and black, and it's 30% cheaper.
Dark blue: Dark blue with semiglossy finish.
Black: Semiglossy finish.
FormfuturaApolloXXXX gFormfutura instructs to use 235-255°C nozzle, 80-100°C bed and enclosure.
Black: Have not yet printed with it.
PrimaPrimaSelect ABSXXX gPrima recommends 220-270°C. At 250°C printed part was good, no layer to layer variancy due to filament diameter changes, but in closer inspection large differences on layer print time cause slightly visible differences between layers. Printed Voron StealthBurner cooling ducts @ 255°C & 110°C => chamber temp was 52-53°C with cooling fan blowing 33% all the time and 80% in overhangs, and used 0.96 extrusion multiplier; excellent results, nothing technical or surface quality what I could complain in the print. At 110°C too much bed layer adhesion with Buildtek black buildplate, it was very hard to remove the parts.
Green: Printer part is very matte green - shade of green is between pure middle green and olive green, closer to the middle green.
Dark Grey: Printed part is between matte and semiglossy dark green (this can be considered as dark grey unlike majority of "dark" grey filaments).
PrimaPrimaValue ABSXXX gPrima recommends 220-270°C.
Green: Raw filament looks exactly same as 3DJake's niceABS Green, also spool is same what 3DJake uses - so it does not even remotely look the same as in website pictures, much more yellow and lighter than in Prima website - I would say "Ugly mustard with green tint". Printed parts look and behave exactly the same as 3DJake niceABS Green - this must be same filament; no change that two factories would come up this ugly color and everything else exactly same.
Dark Grey: Raw filament looks exactly same as 3DJake's niceABS Dark Grey, also spool is same. However this one did have print issues what 3DJake's Dark Grey doesn't have. The issues I had were in test print (Voron Afterburner 40x20 blower housing) on layer which had long duration and ironing; layers around that long print time layer had lots of issues, not just small tone shift and slightly different layer but deformations which go over multiple layers around the problematic layer. Same gcode file with PrimaValue Green or PrimaSelect ABS did not have these issues. I'll try same gcode also with 3DJake's Dark Grey...and it was fine.
R3DABSXXX gGeneral: 3DJake.com defines 220-250°C and 95-110°C. In spool it says only 230-260°C. This filament is weird what comes to settings, the bottom layer can be under extruded while the perimiters overextrude, with a profile which works just fine with > ABS filaments. Black was next to impossible to find settings to print with 0.4mm nozzle. Red and Light blue were OK with 0.8mm nozzle. Needs more printing to get understanding of this weirdly behaving filament. Based on temperature tower printed first prints @ 240-245°C and that doesn't provide strong prints, but they look better. Printing at 255°C seems to make the overextrusion issue worse. 105°C bed is too warm for some shapes and creates large elephant foot on thin 2 perimiter structures, where the elephant foot compensation or CAD chamfer cannot be used.
EDIT: after some prints I seem to get best results by adjusting Light Blue: Nice light blue, somebody could say "just blue" as it's not particular light shade of blue. Finish is glossy @ 250°.
Red: Dark red - high saturation. Finish is semiglossy. Otherwise OK but needs extrusion multiplier lowered.
Dark Blue: Very dark blue. Finish semiglossyy. Similar to red extrusion multiplier needs to be lowered.
Yellow: Color is great; darkish very saturated yellow with glossy surface. Does not print nice, little stringy and overall quality not as great as with good ABS filaments. Not worse to print than other R3D filaments (typically yellow and white filaments don't print as well as other colors).
Black:
SpectrumASA 275??? gRecommenended 200-240°C nozzle and 40-60°C bed. Did create clog/jam at 240°C and 100°C, and didn't stick to bed very well either. Either this is the sh#ttiest ASA on top of earth or the manufacturer recommends are way off, next time try 260°C and very low fan even there is enough chamber temperature
EDIT: 260°C didn't work either.
EDIT2: So tried 230°C and was able to print 50mm x 50mm cylinder without clog/jam. But when printing standard test part also 230C clogged/jammed.
Forest Green: Medium green semiglossy/matte.
SunluABSXXX gPackage and spool say very wide temperature range 230-270°C and 80-120°C bed.
Blue: Printed nicely. Blue is medium/dark (closer to medium) blue with semiglossy finish. Saturation is high and I'm positively surpriced about this filament.
Green: Also printed nicely @ 260°C. Very saturated light green, some brands would call it neon green. I was very surpriced that finish is almost matte, I would have never expected this based on how filament looks in the spool.
XYXXX g

PLA

As I plan not to sand and paint the 3D-printed parts the color and finish quality is important for me in addition to mechanical properties. All PLA prints easily and generally there are small differences in warping and 1st layer adhesion => so only exceptional properties of filament have comment about those.

Matt Olive Green: Prima recommends 205-220°C. Printed part is gloser to khaki, but it's not, more like khaki with green tint. Test print was printed at 210°C and was quite stringy. Printed part has rough texture when touched with finger, or looked at very large magnification
ManufacturerTypeSpool
Weight
Comments
3DJAKEecoPLA GlitterXXX g3DJAKE recommends 195-215°C.
Light Green: Somehow feels low quality, on all prints this far there have been clear difference between layers like the filament dimensions would be changing or something similar. Color I would call vibrant version of army green, finish is glossy and for my eye there is too much glitter (about 5x compared to Prusament "Galaxy" filaments).
3DJAKEecoPLA ToughXXX gRecommended temperature range 200-220°C, test print done at maximum temperature.
Dark Grey: Grey isn't particularly dark, just gray. Surface finish appears to be always semi-glossy, slower print speeds resulting slightly darker finish. Speed/layer printing duration variations are smallest of any PLA tried (well at least 2020 December). Bed adhesion is low and tends to warp more than PLAs usually do (textured sheet not at all feasible).
Dark Blue: Not tried yet.
3DJAKEecoPLA MattXXX g3DJAKE recommends: 205-225°C nozzle, 60°C bed. Printed the first 4 colours at 215°C. All printed perfectly and look the same. Finish is between matte and semiglossy. Surface looks more like fancy suit fabrik than plastic.
Black: Black, not much else to say.
Purple: Quite low saturation and darkish purple.
Moss Grey: Some sort of army green/gray (not the dark green in but closer to the "other grayish green" in woodland pattern).
Blue: Low saturation darkish blue, with quite lot of green tint.
3DJAKEecoPLA Ultra SatinXXX g3DJAKE recommends: 215-235°C nozzle, 50-70°C bed. I have used 225°C with good results.
Green: Very nice fully glossy green.
Silver: Glossy light green, most "silver" filament I have seen this far. Bed adhesion was low even I used 230°C (225°C) first layer and 70°C bed. Printed part was much more flexible than PLA in general, but sounds similar as normal PLA when dropped to thick wooden table for example. With smoot yellow PEI (Buildtak) the bed adhesion was smaller problem, but I still would be hesitant to print very large long duration printout with this filament. Also seam is particularly ugly, planning to try if SuperSlicer's "Extra length on restart" parameter would make it better. Trying first 0.3mm (retract length 0.7mm).
3DJAKEmagicPLAXXX gBed adhesion weak even with 60°C bed and 225°C nozzle. Larger structures seem to stick, but for example if printed object has "O"-letter and the center is 2mm x 3mm there is about zero change for the center part to stick to bed enough.
Deep space: Dark red and blue mix works well and form nice purple in where colors mix, thou seems vary little layer by layer, may not look nice on round objects, which have large smooth curved surfaces. Surface finish seems to be semiglossy.
Metallic emerald: Not yet printed.
AddNorthE-PLA Aurora GreenXXX gRecommended 195-225°C nozzle, 0-60°C bed. Printed XXXX @ 210°C. Color is little weird combo of blue and green, some sort of turquoise - on spool looks more green, but actual prints look dark blue. Filament contains some glitter, and it appears to be yellow. So I would assume the green is supposed to be achieved by blending blue plastic and yellow glitter, and not successfully in my opinion - I would call end result "dirty blue" as it somehow looks dirty instead of green..
AzureFilmPLA GlitterXXX gRecommendation 200-230°C nozzle and 50-60°C. Bed adhesion was on low side when printed using 65°C bed temperature. Printed veryh nicely at 225°C.
Blue: Printed test print @ 225°C. This filament is little transparent and surface finish changes quite a lot based on printing speed. At 60mm/s finish was something between semiglossy and matte, and transparency was reduced. At 20mm/s finish is glossy and filament is quite transparent. Due to this the overhangs will become glossy, so either choose all external surface print speeds low or high, do not let any variation. Color is dark blue and filament contains good amount of glitter.
AzureFilmPLA TransparentXXX gRecommendation 200-230°C nozzle and 50-60°C.
Red: Color is more like light orange/light pink/"peach" color. Printed part is very transparent. Can't see much usage for this filament, pretty ugly. Tested both 60mm/s and 20mm/s external perimetersand results with 20mm/s were more glossy and little more transparents => try to keep standard speed all over the print.
AzureFilmSilkXXX gSpool says 220-240°C nozzle and 80°C bed, quite nice to have very specific and not something stupid like 220-280°C... Dark copper: Filament is pretty good imitation of copper, thou I don't know why "dark" copper, as it's not dark for copper, actually little lighter than real copper. 230°C nozzle worked fine, but 225°C might be worth checking, at least with copper nozzle.
AzureFilmPLAXXX gPackage: 200-230°C, bed 0-60°C
Gold: 230°C is too hot, first layer has gigantic elephant foot. Printed very nice at 220°C. Color is not really gold, gold would be more yellow, so some kind of light brown. Finish is glossy and filament is slightly transparent e.g. 1 layer wall clearly let light through. Printed few layers 20mm/s and finish is slightly shinier, but difference is very small, so this filament should not have weird differences based on layer print time or printing overhang.
Green: Not tried yet.
Class OhlsonBlackXXX gVery glossy black, which prints well. No color tint, black as it should be.
CrealityGreenXXX gPrints quite nicely. Color is very close to army green, but little more saturated. Semigloss or even gloss finish. Spool identical to SainSmart (transparent little wider than Filamentum, about same width as Prusament.
ColorfabbPLA/PHA Transparent GreenXXX gVery dark glossy green. Prints nicely, very even layers. I would like this very much, but for my use it's little too transparent; with 4 perimiters the infill is still shown.
Devil DesignPLA~250gRecommended: 200-235°C nozzle and 50-60°C bed. Filament was very stringy like the ASA and ABS. Requires increasing retraction from the usual 0.25mm to 0.4mm and enabling SuperSlicer option "wipe while retracting" and setting "extra wipe for external perimeters" set to 1mm.
Green: Finish depends quite lot of printing speed; 120mm/s is matte, 60mm/s is semoglossy and 25mm/s is very close to glossy (similar to most Silk filaments). Shade of green also depends on printing speed and temperature, at higher speeds and lower temperatures I would call it "green grass" but on the other end it gets darker. I like quite much how the printed parts look like, but make sure to setup your printing profile for standard speed e.g. slower printed overhangs look clearly different.
EnotepadPLAXXX gGray: This filament tends to be little "stringy", and don't like to be printed above 205°C, even manufacturer says 190-230°C. When printed 205°C and external perimiters 20mm/s the result are OK. Surface finish is semigloss (or matte with little gloss...) with mentioned settings - with these settings layer printing time doesn't have huge difference to glossiness, but difference can be seen. Manufacturer claims 0.02mm tolerance, and based on results it could be true even this is quite cheap filament. PS. Make sure spool holder is skrewed, not loose - there was spooling issue and i3S pulled so hard that spool holder did fall from shelf and caused small crack to display box, need to print new one...
Black: About two years later than I used the gray, this time with Voron 2.4 and plated copper nozzle. Filament didn't have any stringiness problem, printed nice @ 220°C. Bed adhesion was on weak side for PLA, reminder to myself to not ever print this filament on textured beds...
Eryone"just PLA"XXX gPackage 190-220°C.
Gray: I didn't like this one, lots of variation between layers and layer print duration has effect to glossiness of layers. Light gray and finish is matter or semiglossy depending on temperature, speed and layer print time. Exceptionally 55° overhangs printed nicely.
Black: Finish @ 220°C are glossy and @ 190°C matte (at least on normal speeds). Layer to layer variation better controlled than in other gray Eryone PLA. Exceptionally 55° overhangs printed nicely.
EryoneUltra SilkXXX gPackage 190-220°C.
Black: Not really black, more dark gray. Finish at 190°C is semiglossy, unless speed is really low. Higher temperatures produce glossy finish, very beautiful looking end result. Exceptionally 55° overhangs printed nicely. Layer to layer adhesion not very great.
EDIT: When printed with Voron (Phaetus Dragon HF, Plated copper nozzle, 215°C) external perimeters are fully glossy and ironed top layer close to matte finish.
Copper: Similar to many other silk filaments, this one is very "thick" and when running filament out from extruder it does not come out normally, but instead produces really short and wide extrusion - however when printing part it works normally. Color is copper like. Printed temp tower with additional round part at 215°C and speeds 45-35-25-14mm/s, and can't complain about anything; at all speeds finish is glossy. Also color/brightness was quite homegenous, but 15mm/s was slightly darker. Overhangs and bridging excellent. No stringing. Can't figure out anything to complain, looks like to be very good filament
EryoneMatteXXX gPackage 190-220°C. Exceptionally 55°.
Black: Overhangs printed nicely. External perimiters come somewhere between semiglossy and matte, while ironed top layers and bottom are matte.
Navy Blue: Very smooth end results, one of the best matte filaments I have used. Color is dark and low saturation blue. At 190°C overhangs are suber nice.
EryoneSparkly SilverXXX gLight gray with glitter, 2-3x as much glitter as in Prusament for example. At 210°C there was "stringiness", next time trying to print 200°C.
eSunPLA+XXX gTemperatures from included brochure: nozzle 205-225°C, bed 60-80°C.
Pine Green: Color is very dark green (similar to Prusament Opal Green minus glitter, slightly darker). Test print was done with 220°C & 70°C bed. Finish is semiglossy, and exceptional small difference between 44/22/11 mm/s print speeds, 44mm/s slightly lighter color, can't see difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s. Print is little more flexible than normal PLA, but not as soft as Sunly Silk Green or Fiberlogy FirerSilk filaments - can't also scratch with fingernail. Layer to layer adhesion seems ok, but bed adhesion was weaker than expected @ 70°C bed. EDIT: Prints with Voron come out great as well.
Green: Green mixed with blue, kind of dark turquoise (similar to Filament-PM Petrol Green ABS). Finish on external perimeters and ironed top layer is glossy, bottom is matte.
Gold: Dark yellow/light brown, print has semiglossy finish. Without any metallic properties and being semiglossy hard to find this gold-like filament.
Fire engine red: Dark red filament, print has semiglossy finish.
ExtrudrNX2XXX gRecommended 200-230°C nozzle and 20-60°C bed. Note! on 2020 190-230°C temperature range was recommended, later changed to 200-230°C (lots of complaints on layer adhesion). Extrudr recommends 40-60mm/s printing speed. To be noted that the filaments I got in earliest (2019???) we not great (Emerald Green and Turquoise), some extend one would even say they sucked... but then the ones I purchased in 2022 were suberb, maybe have to re-order those which sucked, but I also didn't like their colors so I may pass...
Emerald Green: Matte finish, prints nice with PrusaSlicer "Generic PLA". When used settings proposed by Jake3D; cooling max 30% and slower print speed results were bad; corners had quality issues and 45° overhang printed really badly => I'll use just the default "Generic PLA" settings in future. Many reviews on filament stores said this is soft filament, and this is the case e.g. you can leave scratches to prints with fingernail. Using middle of the temperature range (190-230°C - note! earlier Extrudr and Jake3D listed this temperature range) result is more semigloss than matte, clear differences between different printing speeds. Layer-to-layer adhesion is not great even at 210°C, I managed to break the test part checking it's flexibility by twisting it a little.
Turquoise: Test print with NX2 Emerald Green @ 210°C did produce more of semigloss finish than matte at lower printing speeds. So decided to test this at bottom of temperature range (190-230°C) instead middle, afterall matte filament is supposed to produce matte results... All worked fine, extruder didn't make clicking sounds etc. External perimiters at 44mm/s become very matte, but layer lines were super visible (filament doesn't melt as well to previous layer?). To me surprise 22mm/s become somewhat matte finish, just little more saturated and little glossiness. 11mm/s again produces little more saturation and glossiness, but I would still say it's closer to matte than semigloss. So if matte result is preferred it's somewhat possible using very low extruder temperature of 190°C. Notice! Printing 190°C resultes much worse layer-to-layer adhesion 4-layer (2.41mm) vertical wall broke when I was twisting the test piece to see does the part have same flexibility as NX2 Emerald Green => as overall I can't recommend using 190°C unless you are printing some decoration etc.
Miliratry Green: This one really wasn't military green, more like light gray with slight green tint. Surface finish was semiglossy @ 225°C and 60mm/s. Somehow seemed to be different filament compared to earlier NX2 filaments I have tried earlier; higher quality print and less matte. Need to see if I have the Emerald Green or Turquoise still remaining, and check with same g-code.
Blue Steel: Same comments as for Military Green, left much better feeling than earlier NX2 filaments. Color is light blue, NOTHING like the website picture of the spool. Color of printed parts is something I could imagine being called blue steel, very nice and could be useful in some actual print as well.
Epic Purple: Same comments as for Military Green and Blue Steel; very high quality. Color is very dark purple and finish is semiglossy like those other NX2 mentioned.
(Navy) Blue: Hmmm, spool and package says "Navy blue", however this time I agree 3DJake.com's "Blue". This color has nothing to do with "Navy Blue", but this might be the most saturated and nice PLA I have ever seen. Finish is matte, there is little sheen, but I would not call this semiglossy under any circumstance. This was when printing @ 225°C and external perimeters at 45mm/s. Finish could be even little more matte, reducing the small sheen, if printed @ 200°C and 60mm/s.
Light Blue: And printing this right after the "Navy blue" observation is that this is almost the same, just little lighter. All characteristics same as "Navy blue".
ExtrudrBiofusionXXX gRecommended temperatures 210-220°C nozzle and 20-60°C bed.
Reptile Green: Very glossy green, similar to Blue Fire, but has two issues which Blue Fire didn't:
1) during bed leveling the filament tends to ooze from nozzle and cause issues
2) layers aren't as homegenous as Blue Fire.
Hue is pure green, without tint towards yellow or blue. Green is medium darkness, not light or dark. Glossiness or hue doesn't change as much as with Blue Fire. Exceptional bed adhesion (clearly strongest from all PLAs I have printed with), e.g. brim is next to impossible remove from Prusa's smooth PEI-sheet, and few times I had problems even with textured Prusa PEI-sheet. To not ruin printing Prusa sheet surface I have used gluestick on all prints after finding out the exceptional adhesion. Great bed adhesion is really good sign for large part printing. Layer to layer adhesion is WEAK, I have had many prints broken when when I remove them from Prusa textured bed (e.g. flat 20mm wide surface against bed, and 4 layer (2.41mm) wide structure on top of it -> when removing part it's most likely going to break - this at 230°C printing, issue is worse when printing lower temperatures.

UPDATE! After printing large speaker parts this filament wasn't as good as expected: I printed two tweeter housings (160mm x 65mm bottom, 18mm rounding on corners, printing duration 7h) and results were supricing; printed first 225°C and all worked fine, but printed 2nd 215° and for some reason all corners lifted - all conditions were identical. So for future use, I will print only 230°C, there is no point printing lower temperature.

EDIT: Voron default Afterburner was not able to provide enough cooling. Need to test again with AB-BN.

EDIT: Voron AB-BN is barely providing enough cooling.
Blue Fire: Very strong blue, could be alternative to Filamentum Noble Blue, which is this far nicest blue filament I have found. Hue can tint towards magenta in some light. Large print speed, large layer print time etc. will cause less gloss, and at same time hue tends to tint towards magenta. Surface finish is very glossy. Temperature range is 200-230°C (package, some websites say 190-230°C - and on 2022 Extrudr website has changed to 210-220°C.... 210°C did work well, and even 190°C didn't have obvious issues, but thin walls should be avoided as layer adhesion is weakish. However print at 230°C produced superior results and gave more tolerange to external perimiter speed changes and layer print time. But even at 230°C it seems printing speed have to be dropped to 20mm/s max. I haven't printed anything big yet, but quite interesting to see as manufacturer claims "low warping". Bed adhesion not as extreme as Reptile Green, but 2nd strongest from all PLAs, unfortunately also layer-to-layer adhesion is weak like in Reptile Green, not as bad but close.

EDIT: Similar to "Biofusion Reptile Green" the Voron standard Afterburner didn't provide enough cooling.
Steampunk Copper: Like other Biofusions; very glossy. Results were excellent with Voron (AB-BN) and 0.4mm Nozzle. Color is like copper, just lacking little red - definitely best of any copper filaments I have tried. Printed @ 215°C and using 60mm/s external perimiter speed, might be worth checking if printing 25mm/s and 220°C if it would be even glossier and hopefully darker.
Inca Gold: Very glossy filament. Color could have had more red on it, now it's more shiny yellow than gold. But very good try, all other gold filaments suck as well.
Venom Green: First try failed, test part detached partially from bed and curved up. Sooooo we have at least poor layer adhesion (the other parts on same print were VERY easy to remove from bed (immediately print finished, and bed as still 60°C).
EDIT: Didn't stick with standard setting (220°C max temperature, bed 60°C) to VonWange black PEI, into which everything sticks like crazy. So instead of my normal "was print surface with dishwash soap and dry with clean paper" I scrubbed with scotchbrite the surface, washed with dishwash soap etc. and raised temperature 5°C over manufacturer maximum to 225°C, disable fan on 2 first layers, 3rd layer on 50% fan and then full fan. And in top of this lowered nozzle 0.05mm lower than normal. Aaaaaaan finally this ridiculous filament did stick. Color is kind of weird light green, and finish is glossy. Print did turn out well, also the test part layer with large print time didn't cause x and y differences.
FiberlogyEasy PLA Vertigo268g/302g/326g WTF?Not tried yet. Package: nozzle 200-230°C
FiberlogyEasy PLA Inox268g/302g/326g WTF?Not tried yet. Package: 200-230°C
FiberlogyEasy PLA Inox268g/302g/326g WTF?Not tried yet. Package: 200-230°C
FiberlogyFiberSilk268g/302g/326g WTF?Recommended 210-230°C and 50-70°C.
Metallic Green: Semiglossy light green, at least with default settings. I haven't tried yet 20mm/s with this one; will it give glossy finish? Also as this is very light green, does glossiness even look nice? Print quality appears to be good based on small test print (=not final opinion). This is softest PLA I have printed, printed parts flex more than typical PLA and can be easily scratched with fingernail. Combined to good bed and layer-to-layer adhesion this might be good feature on some functional printouts. But due to non-existent scratch resistance, this may not be good material for items which can be scratched and have large homogenous surfaces, from which the scratches are very easy to spot.
Metallic Orange: Very nice glossy finish, but only if printed slow enough; with default Fiberlogy PLA profile value surfaces are semiglossy at best. Reduce speed to 20mm/s and raise temperature to 220°C and you should get glossy results. Each layer This is softest PLA I have printed, printed parts flex more than typical PLA and can be easily scratched with fingernail. Also "dropping to table" sound more like PETG than PLA.
Update! After printing object which bottom was 110mm x 160mm rectangle with 10mm rounded corners did not come off from print sheet, instead teared smooth sheet's PEI-sticker pieces off while removing the printed object => In future printouts with Fiberlogy Fibersilk's I will experiment with the textured sheet, hopefully the bed adhesion is good enough with textured sheet. Typically PLA is not sticking very well to textured sheet.
Metallic Burgundy: I would say pink, not burgundy. Prints nice glossy (not semiglossy) surface when "External perimeters" is dropped to 20mm/s and Extruder temperature 220°C (defaults for Prusa i3 mk3S are 35mm/s and 210°C, which will result matte/semigloss finish). In test print I could see difference between 20mm/s and 10mm/s; if part contains large differences on layer print time then 15mm/s might be needed to minimize the changes of finish. This is softest PLA I have printed, printed parts flex more than typical PLA and can be easily scratched with fingernail.
Navy Blue: Test print was printed 230°C nozzle and 65°C bed using textured sheet. Color is darkish blue, with very minor tint towards magenta, but color is much more pure blue than Extruder Blue Fire. Surface finish at 44mm/s is semiglossy, 22mm/s is very glossy and 11mm/s is very glossy, but we get darker blue. Mechanically this filament apperear to be similar to other FiberSilk filaments; more flexible and softer, even when dropping to table it doesn't sound as hard as for example Prusament. Bed adhesion wasn't strong enough for textured sheet (common in PLA filaments).
Update! After doing actual prints noticed quite weird thing; Prusa original hotend at 230°C can't push 14mm^3/s (value I typically set in PrucaSlicer) filament through (under extrusion, uneven 100% fill) and had to slow down the printer to get smooth results. I haven't noticed same issue with the Fibersilk Metallic filaments, but haven't yet printed much with them. So this filament is NOT similar to Fibersilk Metallic filaments; less bed adhesion, softer and more "resistance" pushing through nozzle.
Update2! Did print 6x temperature tower using 35mm/s (PrusaSlicer default) on bottom 3 and 20mm/s on top 3 as external perimiter. Temperatures used were 230-220-210°C. This revealed very intresting results; at 35mm/s color is definitely NOT "navy blue", I would say just matte or semi-glossy light blue. In addition 35mm/s results varied a lot by temperature and layer print duration = not recommended. The 20mm/s all temperatures and layer print times looked similar and color was glossy blue (not really "navy blue"). 45° overhangs were all great, but all 55° overhangs all were bad as well as the back corners (part cooling fan blows from front). 20-60mm bridging test revealed that this PLA can't bridge 60mm, I would say maximum 45-50mm. Stringing was not issue at any speed or temperature, and only 230°C had few small stings.
EDIT: After first Voron prints; printed very nicely and Afterburner was able to provide enough part cooling.
Filament PMPLA+225gGeneral: 190-210°C nozzle and 60°C bed. Prints nice with Voron at max temp from range.
Sweet Mint: Bright cyan/light blue (to me "mint" would have little more green tint). Finish semiglossy.
Banana Yellow: Low saturation yellow with matte finish. Test print @ 200°C came out almost flawless, only small variation can be seen when there is longer layer printtime.
White: Pure white with matte finish. Printed test print at max 210°C and test print was almost flawless.
FillamentumExtrafill230gGenerally recommended 190-210°C and 60°C bed, but there are exceptions. Generally good filaments, print well and look nice, but bed adhesion is on the weak side.
Noble Blue: Wow! Really deep blue with semigloss finish. I limited the printing speed on perimiters and tops surfaces to 20mm/s @ 200°C, and the surface was very even and at 0.2mm layer height part looks smoots without having any typical 3D print look. There was little issues with stringiness (small white super thin strings, can be almost just blown away = not a problem), which I have not faced with Prusament for example. I wish there would be similar filament in green color.
EDIT: Based on first Voron prints standard Afterburner is not able to cool enough. Otherwise results were great.
EDIT2: StealthBurner is able to cool enough. Bed adhesion has been problematic, even the smooth yellow PEI is not really sticking @ 60°C bed.
EDIT3: Tried to improve ded adhesion by using 215°C nozzle and 70°C bed. Didn't work for small details (all forcefully cracked off by nozzle ~2mm heigth), but it was good for the main part of test body, first time the test part (AfterBurner blower) was completely attached to bed after printing finished.
Luminius Green: Nice green, hue is same as my favorite green, but this one is little too light/bright and it seems I still haven't found replacement for discontinued(?) Prusa Pearl Green, which was perfect color/brightness. When printed at 200°C using standard Prusa printing speeds result is matte finish. When perimeter printing is slowed down to below 20mm/s finish will become semiglossy. Didn't notice any filament differences between layers unlike many cheaper filaments even this is supposed to be "only" +-0.05mm, while many cheaper +-0.02mm filaments have given much less homegenous printing results.
Crystal Clear Iceland Blue: Recommended 210-230°C. Very light blue & transparent, like ice. Some customer reviews claimed this filament is brittle, to me it seems normal PLA based on the prints I did. I printed in 220°C, which is in middle of the recommended range - maybe it's brittle if somebody prints this at 200°C? Prints were very accurate and surface quality good, as transparent filament could have benefitted printing at top of temperature scale and/or reducing fan to make layers/lines to blend better to each another.
Traffic White: Finish is glossy (20mm/s & 210°C) and pure white. I printed holder for white Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro and this filament is whiter than those headphones. Filament to bed adhesion is not the greatest, like all filaments which are pure white. With the black PEI sheets (Müller from Fermio Labs) I could not get filament to stick before lowering the temperature of bed to 55°C and filament temperature to 205°C, anything hotter just doesn't stick.
Luminius Yellow: Very good print quality. Raw filament very glossy, but printed objects seem matte or semiglossy and color is not as saturated as raw filament.
Iron Gray: Not printed with this one yet.
GeetechSilk CopperXXX gCan produce nice results, but very sensitive to printing speed/layer print speed. When small printing speed used produces semigloss results. Layer to layer adhesion is weak.
GiantafarmGreenXXX gPrints OK, may cause stringiness. Lighter and little more saturated than the other "army green" like filaments. Semigloss finish.
KableDirectPLAXXX gRecommended nozzle temperature 185-220°C.
Green: Color is army green, but it has small tint towards yellow and it's little brighter. Finish is matte or semigloss depending on temparature, printing speed and layer duration. Print quality otherwise good, but layer print variations will cause visible different looking layers. This filament is exceptionally brittle on spool, but still seems to print ok. Personal note: this is the one used in most of kitchen organizers etc.
Black: Not printed yet with this one.
OvertureMatte PLAXXX gRecommended 190-220°C nozzle and 50-70°C bed. Spool has nicely every 90 degrees dual holes for filament end.
Blue: Test part printed @ 210°C and 70°C bed. Bed adhesion was not strong enough for small detail e.g. O-letter inside "island". Also 70°C is too high, narrow details got elephant foot/melting. Color is "medium" blue, medium saturation, medium brightness. Finish is between semiglossy and matte. Test part external perimeters printed close to perfect.
PolymakerPolyterra PLAXXX gPackage: nozzle 190-230°C, 25-60°C. Arctic teal: First of these I printed this color, applies to others as well: printed @ 215°C, and print came out very stringy and there is clearly layer to layer differences. Quite saturated teal. Matte finish.
EDIT: for reason or another whatever I did (dried the filament 48h, adjusted retractions, temps etc.) the filament was super stringy. Then I did download SuperSlicer and almost no stringing at all using just "Generic PLA". SuperSlicer also allowed to adjust much more settings and have them in modifiers, so I created matrix of different Benchys with different settings and found out that if I drop "Extrusion multiplier" to 90% then the vertical parts were much better, but top fill was perfect at 100%, so I dropped it to 90% but increased "Top fill flow ratio" to 112% and top fill is 100% smooth, doesn't look at all FDM print. Also "First layer flow ratio" could be increased to 105% for optimal results as 90% multiplier was little lean and 95% multiplier about perfect while 105/110% multipliers were having way too much filament in first layer. So at this point of time those settings and 200-205C might be the best setting. I tried to compare settings between PrusaSlicer and SuperSlicer and I cannot find logical reason "stringy with Prusa" and "not stringy with Super".
Forrest Green: Kind of pastel green with matte finish
Sunrise Orange: Low saturated orange (one could say "pastel orange"), always matte finish
Chargoal Black: Matte black. Prints otherwise nice but large difference in layer duration can cause issues. Standard extrusion multiplier 96% needs to be reduced. Filament is very rough even printed, due to this printed parts seem immune to fingerprints.
Lava Red: "normal" red, quite saturated and finish between matte and semiglossy
Sapphire Blue: "normal" blue, finish between matte and semiglossy
PrimaPrimaSelectXXX gPrima recommends 180-210°C.
Dark Blue: Prima recommends 180-210°C. Printed part is pure dark blue, with almost glossy finish - printed test part 205°C which seemed good temp.
Metallic Blue: Prima recommends 210-230°C. Printed part light/medium blue with low saturation with lots of glitter, can't say that I'm fan of. Print quality at 220°C was ok.
Glossy Jungle Green: Prima recommends 210-230°C. Printed part was glossy green, not dark, not light, no tint pure green. Printed nicely @ 220°C, but part was weaker than other PLA parts, e.g. 2 layer Pressure Advance Tower was impossible to detach from printer bed without breaking it.
PrusaPearl226gPrusa recommends 215°C and 50-60°C. Prusa not making this one, this is made by Filament PM, and their Pearl Green is the same filament.
Green: Best green gamut I have found this far. Printing speed and time between layers effects how the final product looks like = slower printing produces darker and more vibrant green, faster printing speed produces more matte finish and decreased saturation.
Update: Printing 6 level temperature tower 225-212-200°C and 35mm/s & 20mm/s. Results at 35mm/s are awful, each temperature (and/or changes in layer print duration) caused different shade of green and glossiness. Results 20mm/s were not great either; 220°C and 212°C were quite homogenous, but layer print time differences still had effect to brightness of filament. Bridging 20-60mm did work well. 55° overhand caused back edge to be ugly at all temperatures and speeds. Stringing was not issue at any temperature or speed.
EDIT: With Voron xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Red: Test print is perfect in every aspect. Nice silky smooth (much smoother than Pearl Green) darkish red, maybe burgundy is correct color name. Surface finish is semiglossy/glossy @ 215°C (plated copper nozzle), but more matte result can be achieved printing 200°C and keeping external perimeters 60mm/s or faster.
Blue: Test print is perfect in every aspect. Very smooth dark blue. Finish @ 215°C is matte/semiglossy. Matte finish can be achieved even @ 220°C as long as external perimeters are printed fast (=60mm/s or faster).
Yellow: Not printed yet.
White: Not printed yet.
PrusaPrusamentXXX gRecommended nozzle temperature 215°C and bed 50-60°C in website. In spool it says 215+-10°C and 50+-10°C. In general I would recommend setting at least 65°C bed as layer adhesion is not great in any of the Prusament PLAs.
Galaxy Black: Not really black, base color is dark gray, some other manufacturers would call it "anthrasite". Additionally there is small amount of glitter. Prints super nicely and surfaces appear smoother than with any other filament I have printed. Only printing issue is low bed adhesion, and larger prints tend to have issues because of that - I have been able to mitigate this mostly by using glue stick and avoiding using textured PEI sheet, as this filament doesn't stick to it well even with glue stick. Prusa i3 mk3S default profiles have "External perimeter" speed 35mm/s, this setting will result matt finish on layers with long printing time (would look nice as well) and can go darker and glossier when printing simplier and smaller layers. So I would recommend 20mm/s for "External perimeter" and "Top solid infill" to have uniform shade despite printtime/speed differences, this will also produce slightly darker gray, which looks better to me.
EDIT: With Voron's Phaetus Dragon HF and plated copper nozzle resulted quite glossy external perimeters @ 215°C and 60mm/s. I find this quite odd as with Prusa (brass nozzle, same temperature, 20-30mm/s external perimiters) resulted matte finish. In addition Voron prints appear darker, I could call result black, no longer just dark grey..
Galaxy Silver: Semiglossy light gray with glitter, glitter almost not visible. Printing speed has effect on glossiness - this is quite matt/semigloss finish so I would call it light gray not silver (use <20mm/s for glossy homogenous result for outer perimeters), but no effect to brightness/darkness/hue. This one has really bad bed adhesion, much worse than other Prusaments, which are pretty bad in general regarding bed adhesion - I don't know is it only bed adhesion or is this filament also more prone for warping. This far all prints larger than 75mm on horizontal dimension have failed, while for example I have managed to print 240mm print with other Prusament filaments[Opal green, Galaxy black, Galaxy Purple] (hard to achieve with Prusaments, but with glue stick and super clean bed this was possible), so I can't recommend this filament for any larger prints.
Galaxy Purple: Prints nicely. Semiglossy purple with glitter. Similar behaviour as Galaxy Black what comes to printing speed and bed adhesion.
EDIT: Few spools of this color have had issues of printing consistent layers. I have not seen this issue on any other Prusament.
Opal Green: Dark green with very small amount of glitter (almost none). Similar behaviour as Galaxy Black what comes to printing speed and bed adhesion.
EDIT: See Voron comment about finish and color darkness, exact same comment to this filament.
Gentleman Gray: Color is very dark green with blue tint, but saturation is very low. Fast print speeds results matte or semigloss results. Layer print time has effect to darkness external perimiters. Low print speeds result semigloss result, with not much difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s print speeds indicating that layer print time differences would not make much difference. Very low bed adhesion and high warping - not suitable for printing large objects.
Azure Blue: Nice saturated light blue. Very even semigloss finish when printed lower speeds, large print speed results matte finish and tone of blue changes based layer print time.
Similar to Prusament Lipstick Red the printing direction & fan blowing direction have effect on glossiness; from the front surface I cannot see difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s but it's visible on backside, and along Y-axis.
Mystic Brown: The color change effect is super weak, just nice semiglossy dark brown. The color change effect causes that this filament suffers from holes etc. in top layer so that there are clearly different parts in top layers => this filament will benefit greatly from the new feature in PrusaSlicer 2.3 regarding top infill = monotonous. Glossiness depends on printing speed/layer print time. External perimiter surface quality exceptionally good; almost no difference can be seen if printing my speed vs. surface quality test with 22mm/s vs 11mm/s, this indicates really good performance if I limit external perimiter speed to 20mm/s - naturally 44mm/s produces matt result (22mm/s is glossy), so I would recommend to use 20mm/s for external perimiters for high quality homogenous surface finish. Bed adhesion lower than other Prusaments, but not as bad as Galaxy Silver - not recommended for large prints.
Lipstick Red: Very saturated pure red. High printing speeds results matte finish on external perimiters, which shiness/brightness depends on layer printing speed. At 22mm/s and 11mm/s surface quality turns semi-gloss and layer print time doesn't have much effect on surface quality.
Noticed interesting effect; on my external perimiter test the vertical surface which did go along X-axis (left-right) had no difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s on front surface (=Prusa i3 cooling fan blows to this surface) but the difference could be seen on vertical surface which goes along Y-axis (front-back), and in backside of X-axis vertical surface. I mention this because this is not common with other filaments.
Prusa Orange: Bright and saturated orange - similar to PETG orange parts in Prusa I3mk3S in color and glossiness if printed at slow speed. Printing >30mm/s will result matte print, not much difference between 22mm/s and 11mm/s.
NouleiSilk Like PLA CopperXXX gNoulei instructs 195-230°C nozzle and 50-80°C bed. Printed Pressure Advance square tower using 225°C and vertical walls look printed at 100mm/s in a way that they were printed too hot => so try next time 215-210°C???.
R3DPLA TransparentXXX gGeneral: According to 3DJake.com 190-220°C & 40-60°C.

Blue: Transparent glossy PLA. Infill barely shows through 4 layers. Blue, not light, not dark. Printed otherwise OK but extrusion multiplier needs to be lowered.
R3DPLA TwinklingXXX gGeneral: According to 3DJake.com 190-220°C & 40-60°C. R3D call glitter filament "Twingling".

Red: Filament is little transparent and has glossy finish. Color is bright saturated red. Filament has lots of very small stringing, when printing the test print @ 210°C. Amount of glitter is very small and glitter pieces are very large and shiny = individual glitter pieces draw attention to themselves, not optimal glitter filament.
Re-pet3DrPLA Pastel GreenXXX g3DJake instructs 195-215°C nozzle. Printed Pressure Advance square tower using 205°C and vertical walls look printed at 100mm/s look ok. Color name is accurate, finish is matte but there is little diffused gloss. Exceptional layer adhesion; when breaking 2 perimiter wide vertical walls, they are very tough to break and when broken mostly seemed to break based on how I twisted, not always following layer lines like with most filament.
SainSmartWhiteXXX gMatte white filament. Prints quite nice but suffers from elephant foot more than average filaments. When printed @ 200°C results are matte for 44mm/s, and equally semiglossy for 22mm/s and 11mm/s.Spool identical to Creality Green PLA (transparent little wider than Filamentum, about same width as Prusament.
SainSmartPRO 3 Silk PLA GreenXXX gFilament tested using the 6x temperature tower using PrusaSlicer default speed for three bottom "layers" and 20mm/s for three top layers, and temperatures 215-200-185°C. Printing temperature doesn't have any effect to color or glossiness. 20mm/s was darker than default speed 35mm/s. Bed adhesion was not the greatest; both edges of temperature tower lifted. Stringiness was high for a PLA filament. 45° overhang was OK, 55° overhand did curve upwards towards end of bed (the part cooling fan blows from front), and this was pretty bad as well as the whole rear edge of 55° overhang. All other temperatures and speed were awful, but 185°C and 20mm/s was somewhat tolerable. My temperature tower has 20-60mm bridging and this filament bridged quite well using all temperatures (bridging default speed 25mm/s, top part 20mm/s - does not seem to make difference).

Most likely optimal settings will be 25mm/s @ 190°C.
SpectrumSpicy CopperXXX gPackage: nozzle 210-240°C, bed 40-60°C. Bench printed at 220°C was stringy and there was quite a lot of layer to layer differences (bad tolerance of filament). Filament doesn't look like copper, it looks like light brown with glossy finish.
SpectrumStardust BlueXXX gPackage: nozzle 185-215°C, bed 0-45°C. Accidentally printed 60°C bed, nothing bad happened, but print didn't stick, other end of 120mm x 15mm piece lifted from smooth PEI after few layers -> need to test 45°C bed but that will stick even less... Colors is very dark violet/blue with some red in it. Amount of glitter is moderate, more than in Prusament "Galaxy" but way less than in 3D Jake. Finish is @25mm/s matte 185-195°C, and start to get semiglossy 205-215°C - layer print temperature has effect to glossiness/darkness.
SunluGrass GreenXXX gLittle bit darker than the other "army green" like greens, hue is little from green towards blue. Semiglossy finish. Personal note; this is the one used in computer front dust-screen holder.
SunluPLA+ BlackXXX gTemperatures from cardboard box: nozzle 210-235°C, heated bed required 70-80°C
SunluPLA+ Silk BlueXXX gLooks very similar to "PLA+ Silk Green" even missing the "Silk" from the name, but also Sunly and Amazon are not the clearest what filament one is buying... Temperatures are same As "PLA+ Silk Green" so I decided to try printing this close to bottom of temperature range @ 215°C and this was mistake: layer adhesion was not at all same level as "PLA+ Silk Green" @ 230°C. Surface finish was shiny and filament looks very good, beautiful light blue. As filament was not good for low temperature printing I decided to print 2nd test print, but this time at maximum recommended temperature 235°C. And it seems layer to layer adhesion was better, but still not "perfect" even at higher temperature. Surface finish is glossy and color still nice saturated light blue. Like "PLA+ Silk Green" filament is softer and more flexible than typical PLAs. Seems that based on the Sunly PLA+ Blue and Silk Green that these Sunlu PLA+ filaments are worth checking other colors as well; are they are good as Silk Green or otherwise good but lacking layer-to-layer adhesion like Blue?

Update! Unlike most PLA I was able to use Textured Powder-coated PEI sheet without gluestick @ 235°C nozzle & 80°C bed (1st layer 75°C)
SunluPLA+ Silk GreenXXX gTemperatures from cardboard box: nozzle 210-235°C, heated bed required 70-80°C. Color is light green, almost light cyan. Surface finish is shiny. Test print was done 230°C & 75°C; 44mm/s and 22mm/s don't have much difference, and 11mm/s was clearly darker. Some reviews complained about layer and bed adhesion, but at my settings neither is problem. Filament is more flexible and softer than normal PLA, makes also different sound when dropped to table for example, also possible to scratch with fingernail - Filament properties very similar to Fiberlogy FiberSilk filaments.

Update: After actual printing; really nice filament, really nice homegenous shiny prints, absolute no issue due to changing diameter/shape of filament. 100% infill doesn't come homegenous if flow rate is default for PLA (15mm3/s), reducing to 11mm3/s produced good results when printed 235°C nozzle. Same was observed with Fiberlogy FiberSilk filaments, both of these behave similar and are very PETG-like.

EDIT: Print results great also with Voron, and standard Afterburner was able to cool down enough.
SunluPLA+ Silk RedXXX gPhysical properties like Silk Green. Color is saturated red, not as saturated as Prusament Lipstick Red but very close. Surface finish is always shiny, on test sample 44mm/s and 22mm/s are similar (22mm/s very little darker) and 11mm/s was clearly darker.
SunluPLA+ Silk GoldXXX gPhysical properties like Silk Green. Color is like gold and finish always shiny. If trying to imitate gold color then it's worth to note that slower print speed will cause darker end results, and to imitate gold the 44mm/s on test sample was closest to gold in my eye - so in practice very hard to make things look like gold as small and/or complicated objects will not print this high speeds.
SunluBlackXXX gNot tried yet
SunluSilk BlackXXX gNot tried yet. According to Sunlu
TinmorryMatte PLA Army greenXXX gLike advertised color is army green, slightly darker compared to what usually is considered as army green. Temperature range is on the low end; 180-200°C. When printed with PrusaSlicer's "Generic PLA" profile and 190°C the end result was matte. Difference in layer printing duration didn't seem to cause color/tone/glossiness. On Z-level where layer print time changes radically there were issues, like shrinkage of whole layer which layer print time was 10x previous layers. Bed adhesion was good using 195°C first layer seemed to be OK.
TinmorryMatte PLA KhakiXXX gKhaki colored matter filament. Similar to the Matte PLA Army green with similar layer to layer issues. Additionally noticed that very large prints were more khaki, and smaller prints had more yellow/orange tint on them.
XXX gNot tried yet

PETG

I haven't used much yet PETG. Warping is much worse than PLA, and in most large prints at least the corners tend to "lift off" with PLA. PETG requires higher temperatures so without enclosure it would be really hard to print large prints like speaker parts without warping. I really would like to use PETG as there really aren't many glossy PLA filaments.

ManufacturerTypeSpool
Weight
Comments
BasicfillSignal WhiteXXX gMatte white, not 100% white, very very small warm tint. Good bed adhesion and prints nicely 240°C first layer and 250°C other layers.
BasicfillTransparent BlueXXX gPrints very nicely at 250°C, haven't tried other temperatures. Result is somewhat transparent. In the print I did I used feature to adjust layer height and it was mistake; the 0.15mm layer height is considerable less saturated and less transparent than layers printed 0.30mm.
BasicfillTransparent GreenXXX gDried properly before printing, and was surprised for this cheap PETG: printed very well, not any kind of issues, there was not even warping on my first print, which was 15 hour printout. Colour is light green and surface quality was good. Finish is shiny. I used 4 perimiters, which removed the issue if seeing the infill, I can see infill via bottom and when using 2 layers..
BasicfillTransparent BlueXXX gPrints very nicely at 250°C, haven't tried other temperatures. Result is somewhat transparent. In the print I did I used feature to adjust layer height and it was mistake; the 0.15mm layer height is considerable less saturated and less transparent than layers printed 0.30mm.
BasicfillTransparent GreenXXX gDried properly before printing, and was surprised for this cheap PETG: printed very well, not any kind of issues, there was not even warping on my first print, which was 15 hour printout. Colour is light green and surface quality was good. Finish is shiny. I used 4 perimiters, which removed the issue if seeing the infill, I can see infill via bottom and when using 2 layers..
Devil DesignPLA~250gRecommended: 220-250°C nozzle and 70-80°C bed.
Racing Green: xxxxxx
EnotepadWhiteXXX gTotal carbage. Weak bed adhesion. Very stringy. Tends to caube "blobs" (collects filament to outside of nozzle and at some point "drops" the collected blob to printed part). All this after oepning factory closed pack and drying 18h at 60°C. Temperature range provided by manufacturer 200-220°C, but 230-240°C produced best results. Spool is 100% identical to Sunly PETG I ordered at same time from Amazon in 2020, and both have this ridiculously low 200-220°C recommendation, interesting to see if Sunly is actually same filament with same issues. Only visual difference to Sunly is different size label in spool, slightly different bag and different looking desiccant bags.
ExtrudrPETG / XPETGXXX gExtrudr recommends 210-230°C and 0-80°C bed.
Emerald Green: Printed pressure advance and test part 225&Deg;C and 75°bed, results otherwise great but Voron's standard Afterburner was not able to provide enough part cooling for test part's layers, which were above long printtime layer. Otherwise nice resutls. Color is darkish pure green and finish is glossy like all PETG filaments.
Matt Blue: Branded as XPETG. Recommended 220-240°C nozzle and 60-70°C bed. Didn't stick to Jake3D branded textured bed, had to use the very rough random brand Amazon bed. And results were not great with SuperSlicer default PET profile; for next try to increase fan from 25% to 66%. Color is dark blue, and finish semiglossy, not matt...
FiberlogyEasy PET-G Transparent Navy Blue268gNot tried yet. Package: nozzle 230-250°C
FiberlogyPCTG Navy Blue268gFiberlogy: nozzle 250-270°C and 90-110°C bed. Used 260°C & 100°C. Transparent and shiny dark blue. Based on pressure advance test part; quite flexible compared to ABS and PLA. Filement is quite stringy, and some experimenting and adjustments needed (test prints just with SuperSlicer's default Voron PET profile).
PrusaPrusament Galaxy BlackXXX gNot yet used
PrusaPrusament Carmine RedXXX g
PrusaPrusament Jet BlackXXX g
PrusaPrusament Neon GreenXXX gVery transparent, the inner fill shows through perimiters - I don't know situation when I would like the inner fill shown, so maybe using 8 or 16 perimiters needed to hide the inner fill. Need to be dried before use, high tendendy to have issues otherwise (and even dried this filament still has issues). Color is very light yellowish green. Tend to have bed adhesion issues are requires very thorough drying before printing and even then tends to "bubble".

Edit: Found solution for printing issues; I increased from standard 0.2mm to 0.3mm for first layer in profile "0.30mm QUALITY"-profile. After this change I no longer got issues of giant blobs which otherwise were happening with this PETG as well as Prusament Ultramarine Blue, but not with other PETGs.
PrusaPrusament Ultramarine BlueXXX gVery nice and vibrant color, somewhat transparent. Need to be dried before use, high tendency to have issues otherwise. Also not the greatest bed adhesion.
PrusaPrusament Pistachio Green200 gVery pale green as expected. When printed with default profile (first layer 240°C nozzle, 85°C bed - other layers 250° & 90°, only changed max flow to 10mm3/s), 0.6mm chamfer on bottom and no elephant foot compensation was close to perfect, could try next time 0.5mm, bed adhesion was great with glue and on the first parts printed there was no warping. Perimeters glossy, top between glossy and semiglossy. Got 100x better feeling than from other Prusament PETGs I have tries before, also didn't "bubble" and have other moisture issues, which riddled both of the semitransparent (Neon Green and Ultramarine Blue) and Carmine Red, and to get decent results tens of hours drying was needed.
PrusaPrusament Ocean Blue200 gxxx
PrusaPrusament Anthrasite Grey200 gxxx
PrusaPrusament Signal White200 gxxx
PrusaPrusament Clear200 gSimilar to Neon Green and Ultramarine Blue; tends to have bed adhesion issues and also similar issues requiring 10-12h drying of filament before printing.
PrusaTransparentThis may or may not be same than then Prusament Transparent PETG. Not yet tried.
SainSmartPro-3 BlueXXX gPrints very nicely, and doesn't need as badly drying as other PETG I have tried (of course beneficial to dry filament before printing). Surface can be very nicely glossy or semiglossy based on printing temperature. Color is "annoying", very vibrant baby blue - maybe if one likes baby blue... color doesn't at all match to the color on Amazon/eBay photos on advertisements (those tend to be something which generally is called Royal Blue)
SainSmartPro-3 LilaXXX gNice glossy dark lila. Otherwise printed nice, but even having 0.75mm chamfer on bottom plate thera was quite big "elephant foot" going all the way up to ~2mm. As it's PETG I used textured bed and bed adhesion was OK, but was not enough to hold print (110mm x 160mm x 55mm box, top open, with 10mm rounding on bottom corners) in the print plate, but insteds corners did lift.
SainSmartPro-3 BlackXXX gFirst print was absolute horrible - either there is moisture in filament or this black PETG is much worse than the Blue or Lila variants. After drying filament 24h (not joke...) the result was better, however stringing is still major problem. The results from printing temperature tower was weird, if I would have not observed this printing I would assume I had forgotten to add the G-code for changing temperature; the results from 220-230-240-250-260°C were almost identical, minor differences on stringing and smooth surfaces were little more smoother. One positive feature as well; this is ONLY temperature tower I have printed this far, which 55° overhang printed perfectly.
SunluBlueXXX gNot tried yet
SunluWhiteXXX gNot tried yet
SunluGreenXXX gThis is "neon green" unlike the Prusament which claims to be. Glossy finish. Material is quite flexible compared to Prusament PETGs.
SpectrumNavy BlueXXX gPackage: nozzle 230-255°C, bed 60-80°C. After trying and getting disappointed Spectrum PLAs this was positive surprise. Filament prints very nicely, bridging and overhangs are great as well as bed and layer adhesion. Finish: 220°C matte, 230°C matte/semigloss, 240°C semigloss/glossy and above glossy. 240°C almost no stringing, 250°C little stringing and 260-270°C lots of stringing. 245&Deg;C most likely optimal for glossy finish and still minimum stringing.
SpectrumLime GreenXXX gNot tried yet. Package: nozzle 230-255°C, bed 60-80°C
AzureFilmPETG GreyXXX gNot tried yet. Package: nozzle 200-240°C, bed 80°C
EryoneYellowXXX gPackage 220-240°C. Stringiness is problem, and retraction settings don't seem to have any effect to it. At 240°C longer layer print time caused the yellow to be darker (complex structure with lots of horizontal planes => external perimiters on heights with longer layers with lots of solid infill/top infill did look different). Best settings seem to be 230°C and unlike many other filaments extrusion multiplier 100% produces good top surfaces, 105% was not significantly better.
EryoneWhiteXXX gPackage says 220-240°C. Did print otherwise OK but there is too much stringing, and tried 8 all retractions between 0 and 4mm. Top solid surface best when extrusion multiplier set to 107%. External perimiters nice and shiny, no matter what settings.
EryoneBlackXXX gNot tried yet
BasicfillBlackXXX gNot tried yet
R3DPETGXXX gGeneral: 3DJake.com recommends 200-240°C & 90-110°C. In spool it says 230-250°C. I'm very doubtful about the bed temperature recommendation, it look quite high for PETG.
Fluorescent Green: (3DJake.com has named it "Neon Green", but even photos of spool on 3DJake.com say Fluorescent Green). Saturated green. Finish "like there would be glass layer on top of plastic". Didn't print well @ 240°C or 230°C. Needs extrusion multiplier lowered and maybe excessive drying as it's quite stringy.
XXX gNot tried yet
XXX gNot tried yet
XXX gNot tried yet

Flexible

I have very small experience of flexible filaments. In general it seems that they seem to work by just losening the filament feeder gears and using low printing speeds.

ManufacturerTypeSpool
Weight
Comments
FormfuturaPython Flex??? gPackage recommends 220-250°C nozzle, 0-60°C bed, 50-100% fan and no enclosure. This time Formfutura's website agrees with the package :) Additional recommendations from website: Flow rate 110-130%, can be printed fast (they mention >80mm/s. They also had good advice like:
Print temperature depends on printing speed and wall thickness (e.g. ± 220 - 230° C for single wall objects with no infill at 50mm/s and ± 245 - 255° C for high infilled objects at 100mm/s)
But what really raised my interest was that they say "Heat resistant up to 138°C.
Black: Not yet printed
3DJakeTPU A95XXX gRecommended 200-230°C nozzle and 60-90°C bed. Also gave recommendation/instruction:
We also recommend increasing the flow by about 5-10% for more consistent extrusion. Black: Not yet printed
FillamentumFlexfill 98A Luminous Green230gFillamentum: 220-240°C nozzle and 50-60°C bed. Prints nicely. Similar neon green as Sunlu PETG. Don't use with smooth bed, it sticks too much and will tear off the surface. Very hard filament, not much different compared to PETG, parted printed with this are very rigid, not very flexible.
EDIT: Printed test part with Voron 225°C, profile limited to 50mm/s and 5mm3/s limited and 1mm retraction. Printed well and no stringing, so retraction could be lower as well. Test part don't differ from ABS or PLA.
SainSmartTPU GreenXXX gShore hardness according to SainSmart is 95A. Considering how hard Fillamentum 98A is it was surprice to me how much more flexible this filament on spool is - thou printouts didn't turn out giganticly flexible compared to 98A. Filament is bright translucent green with glossy finish. First test print was with PrusaSlicer "Generic FLEX" (volumetricly limited to 1.2mm3/s, 1.15 extrusion multiplier => will be printing everything at 1.4mm3/s); in middle of the test print I increased speed first to 200% and once that was successful increased it further to 300%, could not see any difference between 100%-200%-300% => so next I increased the 1.2mm3/s to 3.6mm3/s and printed benchy, and it worked fine as well. So it seems with 0.6mm nozzle, 0.2mm layers (first layer 0.3mm) @ 235°C it seems to be OK if I keep the volumetric speed below 3.6mm3/s (with the 1.15 extrusion multiplier it totals to ~4.3mm3/s in the PrusaSlicer visualization).

EDIT: The benchy was OK from volumetric speed point of view, but the cabin and smoke pipe were almost melted to unrecognizable. So I change the settings so that minimum fan speed is 30% but goes all the way to 90% depending on layer printing duration. Also increased volumetric speed to 4mm3/s, as 3.6mm3/s was 100% fine.
NouleiTPU green 500gXXX gAmazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 210-230°C, bed 70-80°. Tried with and without fan, and tried 220°C and 240°C - none worked, have to take new fresh start with this one.

Same settings mentioned for Eryone Gray TPU work decently.

EDIT 2022 January: I'm confused :) I loosened the filament idler thumbskrew (Voron ClockWork 1) modifed PLA profile to have speed 25mm/s everywhere and created TPU profile with Extrusion multiplier 1.1, Max flow 2.5mm2/s max, Nozzle 230°C, Bed 55°C, 80% fan (AB-BN 30), retraction and retraction set to 25mm/s. And it printed great. I didn't even dry the filament, thou it was in vacuum bag. The bed temperature should definitely be higher than 55°, the bed adhesion was weak and turns in skirt did not stick to bed at all. Also 15mm/s first layer speed might help.
TinmorryTPU transparent blueXXX gAmazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 200-220°C, bed 50-80°C. Transparent glossy saturated dark blue. Printed with Voron using LGX Lite extruder and Dragon HF nicely. No matter what retraction setting used seems stringy. Ended up using 1mm (really high value compared to ABS and PLA). Bed adhesion gigantic and was almost too much for 3DJake nanotexture bed.
SunluTPU blue 500gXXX gAmazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 200-220°C, bed 30-50°C. Printed "fine" with PrusaSlicer's "Generic Flex" profile, with speed increased to 3mm3/s (very stringy and overhangs were bad quality). Color is dark blue, and always shiny, even top layer was shiny.
EryoneTPU gray 500gXXX gAmazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 200-220°C, bed 60-80°C. Clearly softer than the other 95A filaments. Finish is always glossy, shade of gray depends on alyer print time (e.g. benchy until 8mm is darker, and above that lighter gray - glossines remain same. I got best results using modified SainSmart TPU (nozzle 230°C, bed 70°C, Extrusion multiplier 1.1, 80% fan speed, Max volumetric speed 2.5mm/s[didn't touch speeds itself, this will limit it enough with 0.6mm nozzle]), thou benchy smoke pipe was just pile of molten filament, but otherwise benchy was perfect minus some some stringing (not bad, many PETG produce worse stringing). With those setting 10mm bridges perfect, 15mm OK and 20mm clearly too much. Glue stick is mandatory, won't stick to textured bed good enough.
NinjaTekNinjaFlex Lava 500gXXX gNot tried yet. NinjaTek shore hardness and printing settings: 85A, nozzle 225-250°C, bed 50°C + gluestick, top and bottom 10-20mm/s, infill 15-35mm/s, layer 2+ use cooling fan.
FiberlogyFiberFlex 30D BlackXXX gNot tried yet. Package: shore hardness 30D (about 86A), 200-220°C
ÉxtrudrFlex semisoft blackXXX gNot tried yet. Shore hardness 85A and printing settings: 220-250°C, bec 50-60°C, speed 10-20mm/s. Printed nicely with the SainSmart profile. Print quality pretty nice, not much stringing. Not good on bridging, 15mm is too much.
RecreusFilaflex 82A blackXXX gNot tried yet. Shore hardness 82A and printing settings: 220-260°C, speed 30-110mm/s. Printed nicely with the SainSmart profile, and 200% was still printing OK, which was surprice considering how soft the filament is. This filament was quite stringy, but otherwise print quality was really good - filament had been dried 12h in dryer before printing. Like other flexibles, not good for bridging. Slightly lighter than Extrudr Flex semisoft black, almost dark grey on external perimeters after cooling, but top remains black.
XXX gNot tried yet. Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings:

My definitions of glossiness:
matte = no reflection, e.g. when turning part in your hand there is no difference in which angle the light hits to the part
semiglossy = it's not glossy, but you can see light reflection from layerlines
glossy = parts which are clearly glossy, showing reflections of objects nearby (not only light sources) e.g. PLA silk filaments, some PETG - I have seen only few ABS, which I would call glossy (e.g. Filament PM's Green ABS)
Also brain usage is needed; in darker filaments the light source reflections from layer lines have greater contrast than in light colored filament -> at quick glance lighter filaments may appear more matte.

Filament drying

PETG prints much better if it's first dried about 10h with food dehydrator. For flexible it's mandatory, even directly out of the package the one I tried didn't print well, but after 10 hours in dryer it printed really well.

My dryer needed little "spacer" to make space for the spool. In some models you can just the "net" from few layers, but in this model "spacer" was better option. TODO: add photos