This page contains my notes from different filaments. As my main usage is fairly large parts, I have only ONCE printed with the 0.4mm nozzle, that print was the small Prusa logo included in provided SD card. Otherwise I have printed everything with 0.6mm nozzle. So my user experience doesn't reflect to someone printing small figurines etc.
I have printed almost everything with PLA. This is because of warping; when printing large parts filling almost whole printer bed warping is major issue even with PLA. There are some nice colors I really like in PETG, but atleast without enclosure I have not found reliable way to print large prints with PETG.
If nothing else mentioned results are based on PrusaSlicer default settings for filament type e.g. "Generic PLA" OR filament specific settings if they exist. If manufacturer recommended temperature differs from setting then I typically adjust the temperature. Also if I'm printing something, which is not going to displayed in it's final use I tend to change temperature few times during printing to see does temperature have which kind of effect to surface quality.
As I plan not to sand and paint the 3D-printed parts the color and finish quality is important for me in addition to mechanical properties. All PLA prints easily and generally there are small differences in warping and 1st layer adhesion => so only exceptional properties of filament have comment about those.
In general I have strong preference to Prusa's Prusament PLA and variants having glitter (typically word "Galaxy" in the name) as these print really nice; the variance in filament are minimal between layers - and if there are issues the glitter tends to hide the surface issues. Also price in general is OK (not the cheapest, but definitely not expensive). The drawback is that there isn't many colors.
|3DJAKE||ecoPLA Glitter||XXX g||3DJAKE recommends 195-215°C.|
Light Green: Somehow feels low quality, on all prints this far there have been clear difference between layers like the filament dimensions would be changing or something similar. Color I would call vibrant version of army green, finish is glossy and for my eye there is too much glitter (about 5x compared to Prusament "Galaxy" filaments).
|3DJAKE||ecoPLA Tough||XXX g||Recommended temperature range 200-220°C, test print done at maximum temperature.|
Dark Grey: Grey isn't particularly dark, just gray. Surface finish appears to be always semi-glossy, slower print speeds resulting slightly darker finish. Speed/layer printing duration variations are smallest of any PLA tried (well at least 2020 December). Bed adhesion is low and tends to warp more than PLAs usually do (textured sheet not at all feasible).
Dark Blue: Not tried yet.
|3DJAKE||ecoPLA Matt||XXX g||3DJAKE recommends: 205-225°C nozzle, 60°C bed.|
Black: Not tried yet.
|3DJAKE||ecoPLA Ultra Satin||XXX g||3DJAKE recommends: 215-235°C nozzle, 50-70°C bed. I have used 225°C with good results.|
Green: Very nice fully glossy green.
|AddNorth||E-PLA Aurora Green||XXX g||Recommended 195-225°C nozzle, 0-60°C bed. Printed XXXX @ 210°C. Color is little weird combo of blue and green, some sort of turquoise - on spool looks more green, but actual prints look dark blue. Filament contains some glitter, and it appears to be yellow. So I would assume the green is supposed to be achieved by blending blue plastic and yellow glitter, and not successfully in my opinion - I would call end result "dirty blue" as it somehow looks dirty instead of green..|
|AzureFilm||Silk Dark Copper||XXX g||Spool says 220-240°C nozzle and 80°C bed, quite nice to have very specific and not something stupid like 220-280°C... Filament is pretty good imitation of copper, thou I don't know why "dark" copper, as it's not dark for copper, actually little lighter than real copper. 230°C nozzle worked fine, but 225°C might be worth checking, at least with copper nozzle.|
|AzureFilm||Green||XXX g||Not tried yet. Package: 200-230°C, bed 0-60°C|
|Class Ohlson||Black||XXX g||Very glossy black, which prints well. No color tint, black as it should be.|
|Creality||Green||XXX g||Prints quite nicely. Color is very close to army green, but little more saturated. Semigloss or even gloss finish. Spool identical to SainSmart (transparent little wider than Filamentum, about same width as Prusament.|
|Colorfabb||PLA/PHA Transparent Green||XXX g||Very dark glossy green. Prints nicely, very even layers. I would like this very much, but for my use it's little too transparent; with 4 perimiters the infill is still shown.|
|Enotepad||Grey||XXX g||This filament tends to be little "stringy", and don't like to be printed above 205°C, even manufacturer says 190-230°C. When printed 205°C and external perimiters 20mm/s the result are OK. Surface finish is semigloss (or matte with little gloss...) with mentioned settings - with these settings layer printing time doesn't have huge difference to glossiness, but difference can be seen. Manufacturer claims 0.02mm tolerance, and based on results it could be true even this is quite cheap filament. PS. Make sure spool holder is skrewed, not loose - there was spooling issue and i3S pulled so hard that spool holder did fall from shelf and caused small crack to display box, need to print new one...|
|Eryone||Gray||XXX g||Package 190-220°C. I didn't like this one, lots of variation between layers and layer print duration has effect to glossiness of layers. Light gray and finish is matter or semiglossy depending on temperature, speed and layer print time. Exceptionally 55° overhangs printed nicely.|
|Eryone||Ultra Silk Black||XXX g||Package 190-220°C. Not really black, more dark gray. Finish at 190°C is semiglossy, unless speed is really low.
Higher temperatures produce glossy finish, very beautiful looking end result. Exceptionally 55° overhangs printed nicely. Layer to layer adhesion not very great.|
EDIT: When printed with Voron (Phaetus Dragon HF, Plated copper nozzle, 215°C) external perimeters are fully glossy and ironed top layer close to matte finish.
|Eryone||Black||XXX g||Package 190-220°C. Finish @ 220°C are glossy and @ 190°C matte (at least on normal speeds). Layer to layer variation better controlled than in other Eryone PLAs. Exceptionally 55° overhangs printed nicely.|
|Eryone||Matte Black||XXX g||Package 190-220°C. Exceptionally 55° overhangs printed nicely. External perimiters come somewhere between semiglossy and matte, while ironed top layers and bottom are matte.|
|Eryone||Sparkly Silver||XXX g||Light gray with glitter, 2-3x as much glitter as in Prusament for example. At 210°C there was "stringiness", next time trying to print 200°C.|
|Eryone||Ultra Silk Copper||XXX g||Recommended: nozzle 190-220°C. Similar to many other silk filaments, this one is very "thick" and when running filament out from extruder it does not come out normally, but instead produces really short and wide extrusion - however when printing part it works normally. Color is copper like. Printed temp tower with additional round part at 215°C and speeds 45-35-25-14mm/s, and can't complain about anything; at all speeds finish is glossy. Also color/brightness was quite homegenous, but 15mm/s was slightly darker. Overhangs and bridging excellent. No stringing. Can't figure out anything to complain, looks like to be very good filament.|
|Eryone||Matte Navy Blue||XXX g||Not tried yet. Recommended: nozzle 190-220°C|
|eSun||PLA+||XXX g||Temperatures from included brochure: nozzle 205-225°C, bed 60-80°C.|
Pine Green: Color is very dark green (similar to Prusament Opal Green minus glitter, slightly darker). Test print was done with 220°C & 70°C bed. Finish is semiglossy, and exceptional small difference between 44/22/11 mm/s print speeds, 44mm/s slightly lighter color, can't see difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s. Print is little more flexible than normal PLA, but not as soft as Sunly Silk Green or Fiberlogy FirerSilk filaments - can't also scratch with fingernail. Layer to layer adhesion seems ok, but bed adhesion was weaker than expected @ 70°C bed. EDIT: Prints with Voron come out great as well.
Green: Green mixed with blue, kind of dark turquoise (similar to Filament-PM Petrol Green ABS). Finish on external perimeters and ironed top layer is glossy, bottom is matte.
Gold: Dark yellow/light brown, print has semiglossy finish. Without any metallic properties and being semiglossy hard to find this gold-like filament.
Fire engine red: Dark red filament, print has semiglossy finish.
|Extrudr||NX2 Emerald Green||XXX g||Matte finish, prints nice with PrusaSlicer "Generic PLA". When used settings proposed by Jake3D; cooling max 30% and slower print speed results were bad; corners had quality issues and 45° overhang printed really badly => I'll use just the default "Generic PLA" settings in future. Many reviews on filament stores said this is soft filament, and this is the case e.g. you can leave scratches to prints with fingernail. Using middle of the temperature range (190-230°C) result is more semigloss than matte, clear differences between different printing speeds. Layer-to-layer adhesion is not great even at 210°C, I managed to break the test part checking it's flexibility by twisting it a little.|
|Extrudr||NX2 Turquoise||XXX g||Test print with NX2 Emerald Green @ 210°C did produce more of semigloss finish than matte at lower printing speeds. So decided to test this at bottom of temperature range (190-230°C) instead middle, afterall matte filament is supposed to produce matte results... All worked fine, extruder didn't make clicking sounds etc. External perimiters at 44mm/s become very matte, but layer lines were super visible (filament don't melt as well to previous layer?). To me surprise 22mm/s become somewhat matte finish, just little more saturated and little glossiness. 11mm/s again produces little more saturation and glossiness, but I would still say it's closer to matte than semigloss. So if matte result is preferred it's somewhat possible using very low extruder temperature of 190°C. Notice! Printing 190°C resultes much worse layer-to-layer adhesion 4-layer (2.41mm) vertical wall broke when I was twisting the test piece to see does the part have same flexibility as NX2 Emerald Green => as overall I can't recommend using 190°C unless you are printing some decoration etc.|
|Extrudr||Biofusion Reptile Green||XXX g||Very glossy green, similar to Blue Fire, but has two issues which Blue Fire didn't: 1) during bed leveling the filament tends to ooze from nozzle and cause issues 2) layers aren't as homegenous as Blue Fire.
Hue is pure green, without tint towards yellow or blue. Green is medium darkness, not light or dark. Glossiness or hue doesn't change as much as with Blue Fire. Exceptional bed adhesion (clearly strongest from all PLAs I have printed with), e.g. brim is next to impossible remove from from smooth PEI-sheet, and few times I had problems even with textured PEI-sheet - to not ruin printing surface I have used gluestick on all prints after finding out the exceptional adhesion. Great bed adhesion is really good sign for large part printing - haven'd printed any yet, need to update here after first large prints. Layer to layer adhesion is WEAK, I have had many prints broken when when I remove them from textured bed (e.g. flat 20mm wide surface against bed, and 4 layer (2.41mm) wide structure on top of it -> when removing part it's most likely going to break - this at 230°C printing, issue is worse when printing lower temperatures.|
UPDATE! After printing large speaker parts this filament wasn't as good as expected: I printed two tweeter housings (160mm x 65mm bottom, 18mm rounding on corners, printing duration 7h) and results were supricing; printed first 225°C and all worked fine, but printed 2nd 215° and for some reason all corners lifted - all conditions were identical. So for future use, I will print only 230°C, there is no point printing lower temperature.
EDIT: Voron default Afterburner was not able to provide enough cooling. Need to test again with AB-BN.
|Extrudr||Biofusion Blue Fire||XXX g||Very strong blue, could be alternative to Filamentum Noble Blue, which is this far nicest blue filament I have found. Hue can tint towards magenta, large print speed, large layer print time etc. will cause less gloss, and at same time hue tends to tint towards magenta. Surface finish is very glossy. Temperature range is 200-230°C (package, some websites say 190-230°C. 210°C did work well, and even 190°C didn't have obvious issues - however print at 230°C produced superior results and gave more tolerange to external perimiter speed changes and layer print time. However even at 230°C it seems printing speed have to be dropped to 20mm/s max. Haven't printed anything big yet, but quite interesting to see as manufacturer claims "low warping". Bed adhesion not as extreme as Reptile Green but 2nd strongest from all PLAs, unfortunately also layer-to-layer adhesion is weak like in Reptile Green, not as bad but close.|
EDIT: Similar to "Biofusion Reptile Green" the Voron standard Afterburner didn't provide enough cooling.
|Fiberlogy||Easy PLA Vertigo||268g||Not tried yet. Package: nozzle 200-230°C|
|Fiberlogy||Easy PLA Inox||268g||Not tried yet. Package: 200-230°C|
|Fiberlogy||Easy PLA Inox||268g||Not tried yet. Package: 200-230°C|
|Fiberlogy||FiberSilk Metallic Green||268g||Semiglossy light green, at least with default settings. I haven't tried yet 20mm/s with this one; will it give glossy finish? Also as this is very light green, does glossiness even look nice? Print quality appears to be good based on small test print (=not final opinion). This is softest PLA I have printed, printed parts flex more than typical PLA and can be easily scratched with fingernail. Combined to good bed and layer-to-layer adhesion this might be good feature on some functional printouts. But due to non-existent scratch resistent this may not be good material for speakers etc. which have large homegenous surfaces.|
|Fiberlogy||FiberSilk Metallic Orange||268g||Very nice glossy finish, but only if printed slow enough; with default Fiberlogy PLA profile value surfaces are semiglossy at best. Reduce speed to 20mm/s and raise temperature to 220°C and you should get glossy results. Each layer printed evenly on largist print = very high consistency and filament diameter. This is softest PLA I have printed, printed parts flex more than typical PLA and can be easily scratched with fingernail.|
Update! After printing object which bottom was 110mm x 160mm rectangle with 10mm rounded corners did not come off from print sheet, instead teared smooth sheet's PEI-sticker pieces off while removing the printed object => In future printouts with Fiberlogy Fibersilk's I will experiment with the textured sheet, hopefully the bed adhesion is good enough with textured sheet. Typically PLA is not sticking very well to textured sheet.
|Fiberlogy||Fibersilk Metallic Burgundy||268g||I would say pink, not burgundy. Prints nice glossy (not semiglossy) surface when "External perimeters" is dropped to 20mm/s and Extruder temperature 220°C (defaults for Prusa i3 mk3S are 35mm/s and 210°C, which will result matte/semigloss finish). In test print I could see difference between 20mm/s and 10mm/s; if part contains large differences on layer print time then 15mm/s might be needed to minimize the changes of finish based on changes in model causing different layer printing times. This is softest PLA I have printed, printed parts flex more than typical PLA and can be easily scratched with fingernail.|
|Fiberlogy||FiberSilk Navy Blue||268g||Test print was printed 230°C nozzle and 65°C bed using textured sheet. Color is darkish blue, with very minor tint towards magenta, but color is much more pure blue than Extruder Blue Fire. Surface finish at 44mm/s is semiglossy, 22mm/s is very glossy and 11mm/s is very glossy, but we get darker blue. Mechanically this filament apperear to be similar to other FiberSilk filaments; more flexible and softer, even when dropping to table it doesn't sound as hard as for example Prusament. Bed adhesion wasn't strong enough for textured sheet (common in PLA filaments).|
Update! After doing actual prints noticed quite weird thing; Prusa original hotend at 230°C can't push 14mm^3/s (value I typically set in PrucaSlicer) filament through (under extrusion, uneven 100% fill) and had to slow down the printer to get smooth results. I haven't noticed same issue with the Fibersilk Metallic filaments, but haven't yet printed much with them. So this filament is NOT similar to Fibersilk Metallic filaments; less bed adhesion, softer and more "resistance" pushing through nozzle.
Update2! Did print 6x temperature tower using 35mm/s (PrusaSlicer default) on bottom 3 and 20mm/s on top 3 as external perimiter. Temperatures used were 230-220-210°C. This revealed very intresting results; at 35mm/s color is definitely NOT "navy blue", I would say just matte or semi-glossy light blue. In addition 35mm/s results varied a lot by temperature and layer print duration = not recommended. The 20mm/s all temperatures and layer print times looked similar and color was glossy blue (not really "navy blue"). 45° overhangs were all great, but all 55° overhangs all were bad as well as the back corners (part cooling fan blows from front). 20-60mm bridging test revealed that this PLA can't bridge 60mm, I would say maximum 45-50mm. Stringing was not issue at any speed or temperature, and only 230°C had few small stings.
EDIT: After first Voron prints; printed very nicely and Afterburner was able to provide enough part cooling.
|Fillamentum||Extrafill Noble Blue||XXX g||Wow! Really deep blue with semigloss finish. I limited the printing speed on perimiters and tops surfaces to 20mm/s @ 200°C, and the surface was very even and at 0.2mm layer height part looks smoots without having any typical 3D print look. There was little issues with stringiness (small white super thin strings, can be almost just blown away = not a problem), which I have not faced with Prusament for example. I wish there would be similar filament in green color.|
EDIT: Based on first Voron prints standard Afterburner is not able to cool enough. Otherwise results were great.
|Fillamentum||Extrafill Luminius Green||XXX g||Nice green, hue is same as my favorite green, but this one is little too light/bright and it seems I still haven't found replacement for discontinued(?) Prusa Pearl Green, which was perfect color/brightness. When printed at 200°C using standard Prusa printing speeds result is matte finish. When perimeter printing is slowed down to below 20mm/s finish will become semiglossy. Didn't notice any filament differences between layers unlike many cheaper filaments even this is supposed to be "only" +-0.05mm, while many cheaper +-0.02mm filaments have given much less homegenous printing results.|
|Fillamentum||Extrafill Crystal Clear Iceland Blue||XXX g||Very light blue & transparent, like ice. Some customer reviews claimed this filament is brittle, to me it seems normal PLA based on the prints I did. I printed in 220°C, which is in middle of the recommended range - maybe it's brittle if somebody prints this 200°C? Prints were very accurate and surface quality good, as transparent filament could have benefitted printing at top of temperature scale and/or reducing fan to make layers/lines to blend better to each another.|
|Fillamentum||Extrafill Traffic White||XXX g||Finish is glossy (20mm/s & 210°C) and pure white. I printed holder for white Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro and this filament is whiter than those headphones.|
|Fillamentum||Extrafill Luminius Yellow||XXX g||Very good print quality. Raw filament very glossy, but printed objects seem matte or semiglossy and color is not as saturated as raw filament.|
|Fillamentum||PLA Iron Gray||XXX g||Not tried yet. Package: 190-210°C|
|Geetech||Silk Copper||XXX g||Can produce nice results, but very sensitive to printing speed/layer print speed. When small printing speed used produces semigloss results. Layer to layer adhesion is weak.|
|Giantafarm||Green||XXX g||Prints OK, may cause stringiness. Lighter and little more saturated than the other "army green" like filaments. Semigloss finish.|
|KableDirect||Black||XXX g||Not yet used.|
|KableDirect||Green||XXX g||Color is army green, but it has small tint towards yellow and it's little brighter. Finish is matte or semigloss depending on temparature, printing speed and layer duration. Print quality otherwise good, but layer print variations will cause visible different looking layers. This filament is exceptionally brittle on spool, but still seems to print ok. Personal note: this is the one used in most of kitchen stuff.|
|Polymaker||Polyterra PLA various colors||XXX g||Package: nozzle 190-230°C, 25-60°C. First print with Arctic Teal @ 215°C came out very stringy and there is clearly layer to layer differences. Matte finish.|
EDIT: for reason or another whatever I did (dried the filament 48h, adjusted retractions, temps etc.) the filament was super stringy. Then I did download SuperSlicer and almost no stringing at all using just "Generic PLA". SuperSlicer also allowed to adjust much more settings and have them in modifiers, so I created matrix of different Benchys with different settings and found out that if I drop "Extrusion multiplier" to 90% then the vertical parts were much better, but top fill was perfect at 100%, so I dropped it to 90% but increased "Top fill flow ratio" to 112% and top fill is 100% smooth, doesn't look at all FDM print. Also "First layer flow ratio" could be increased to 105% for optimal results as 90% multiplier was little lean and 95% multiplier about perfect while 105/110% multipliers were having way too much filament in first layer. So at this point of time those settings and 200-205C might be the best setting. I tried to compare settings between PrusaSlicer and SuperSlicer and I cannot find logical reason "stringy with Prusa" and "not stringy with Super".
Forrest Green: Kind of pastel green with matte finish
Sunrise Orange: Low saturated orange (one could say "pastel orange"), always matte finish
Arctic Teal: Quite saturated teal, always matte finish
Lava Red: "normal" red, quite saturated and finish between matte and semiglossy
Sapphire Blue: "normal" blue, finish between matte and semiglossy
|Prima||PrimaSelect PLA Dark Blue||XXX g||Prima recommends 180-210°C. Printed part is pure dark blue, with almost glossy finish - printed test part 205°C which seemed good temp.|
|Prima||PrimaSelect PLA Metallic Blue||XXX g||Prima recommends 210-230°C. Printed part light/medium blue with low saturation with lots of glitter, can't say that I'm fan of... Print quality at 220°C was ok.|
|Prima||PrimaSelect PLA Glossy Jungle Green||XXX g||Prima recommends 210-230°C. Printed part was glossy green, not dark, not light, no tint pure green. Printed nicely @ 220°C, but part was weaker than other PLA parts, e.g. 2 layer Pressure Advance Tower was impossible to detach from printer bed without breaking it.|
|Prima||PrimaSelect PLA Matt Olive Green||XXX g||Prima recommends 205-220°C. Printed part is gloser to khaki, but it's not, more like khaki with green tint. Test print was printed at 210°C and was quite stringy. Printed part has rough texture when touched with finger, or looked at very large magnification|
|Prusa||Pearl Green||226g||Best green gamut I have found this far. Printing speed and time between layers effects how the final product looks like = slower printing produces darker and more vibrant green, faster printing speed produces more matte finish and decreased saturation.|
Update: Printing 6 level temperature tower 225-212-200°C and 35mm/s & 20mm/s. Results at 35mm/s are awful, each temperature (and/or changes in layer print duration) caused different shade of green and glossiness. Results 20mm/s were not great either; 220°C and 212°C were quite homogenous, but layer print time differences still had effect to brightness of filament. Bridging 20-60mm did work well. 55° overhand caused back edge to be ugly at all temperatures and speeds. Stringing was not issue at any temperature or speed.
|Prusa||Pearl Red||226g||Nice silky smooth (much smoother than Pearl Green) darkish red, maybe burgundy is correct color name.|
|Prusa||Pearl Blue||226g||Not yet used.|
|Prusa||Yellow||226g||Not yet used.|
|Prusa||White||226g||Not yet used.|
|Prusa||Prusament Galaxy Black||XXX g||Not really black, base color is dark gray, some other manufacturers would call it "anthrasite". Additionally there is small amount of glitter. Prints super nicely and surfaces appear smoother than with any other filament I have printed. Only printing issue is low bed adhesion, and larger prints tend to have issues because of that - I have been able to mitigate this mostly by using glue stick and avoiding using textured PEI sheet, as this filament doesn't stick to it well even with glue stick. Prusa i3 mk3S default profiles have "External perimeter" speed 35mm/s, this setting will result matt finish on layers with long printing time (would look nice as well) and can go darker and glossier when printing simplier and smaller layers. So I would recommend 20mm/s for "External perimeter" and "Top solid infill" to have uniform shade despite printtime/speed differences, this will also produce slightly darker gray, which looks better to me.|
EDIT: With Voron's Phaetus Dragon HF and plated copper nozzle resulted quite glossy external perimeters @ 215°C and 60mm/s. I find this quite odd as with Prusa (brass nozzle, same temperature, 20-30mm/s external perimiters) resulted matte finish. In addition Voron prints appear darker, I could call result black, no longer just dark grey..
|Prusa||Prusament Galaxy Silver||XXX g||Semiglossy light gray with glitter, glitter almost not visible. Printing speed has effect on glossiness - this is quite matt/semigloss finish so I would call it light gray not silver (use <20mm/s for glossy homogenous result for outer perimeters), but no effect to brightness/darkness/hue. Not sure if this is generic or specific to the one roll I have as otherwise Prusament has been pretty similar between different colors: really bad bed adhesion, much worse than other Prusaments, which are pretty bad in general regarding bed adhesion - don't know is it only bed adhesion or is this filament also more prone for warping. This far all prints larger than 75mm on horizontal dimension have failed, while for example I have managed to print 240mm print with other Prusament filaments[Opal green, Galaxy black, Galaxy Purple] (hard to achieve with Prusaments, but with glue stick and super clean bed this was possible), so I can't recommend this filament for any larger prints.|
|Prusa||Prusament Galaxy Purple||XXX g||Prints nicely. Semiglossy purple with glitter. Similar behaviour as Galaxy Black what comes to printing speed and bed adhesion.|
|Prusa||Prusament Opal Green||XXX g||Dark green with very small amount of glitter (almost none). Similar behaviour as Galaxy Black what comes to printing speed and bed adhesion.|
EDIT: See Voron comment about finish and color darkness, exact same comment to this filament.
|Prusa||Prusament Gentleman Gray||XXX g||Color is very dark green with blue tint, but saturation is very low. Fast print speeds results matte or semigloss results and layer print time has effect to darkness external perimiter. Low print speeds result semigloss result, with not much difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s print speeds indicating that layer print time differences would not make much difference. Very low bed adhesion and high warping - not suitable for printing large objects.|
|Prusa||Prusament Azure Blue||XXX g||Nice saturated light blue. Very even semigloss finish when printed lower speeds, large print speed results matte finish and tone of blue changes based layer print time.|
Similar to Prusament Lipstick Red the printing direction & fan blowing direction have effect on glossiness; from the front surface I cannot see difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s but it's visible on backside, and along Y-axis.
|Prusa||Prusament Mystic Brown||XXX g||The color change effect is super weak, just nice semiglossy dark brown. The color change effect causes that this filament suffers from holes etc. in top layer so that there are clearly different parts in top layers => this filament will benefit greatly from the new feature in PrusaSlicer 2.3 regarding top infill = monotonous. Glossiness depends on printing speed/layer print time. External perimiter surface quality exceptionally good; almost no difference can be seen if printing my speed vs. surface quality test with 22mm/s vs 11mm/s, this indicates really good performance if I limit external perimiter speed to 20mm/s - naturally 44mm/s produces matt result (22mm/s is glossy), so I would recommend to use 20mm/s for external perimiters for high quality homogenous surface finish. Bed adhesion lower than other Prusaments, but not as bad as Galaxy Silver - not recommended for large prints.|
|Prusa||Prusament Lipstick Red||XXX g||Very saturated pure red. High printing speeds results matte finish on external perimiters, which shiness/brightness depends on layer printing speed. At 22mm/s and 11mm/s surface quality turns semi-gloss and layer print time doesn't have much effect on surface quality.|
Noticed interesting effect; on my external perimiter test the vertical surface which did go along X-axis (left-right) had no difference between 11mm/s and 22mm/s on front surface (=cooling fan blows to this surface) but the difference could be seen on vertical surface which goes along Y-axis (front-back), and in backside of X-axis vertical surface. I mention this because I have not seen this with other filaments.
|Prusa||Prusament Prusa Orange||XXX g||Bright and saturated orange - similar to PETG orange parts in Prusa I3mk3S in color and glossiness if printed at slow speed. Printing >30mm/s will result matte print, not much difference between 22mm/s and 11mm/s.|
|Noulei||Silk Like PLA Copper||XXX g||Noulei instructs 195-230°C nozzle and 50-80°C bed. Printed Pressure Advance square tower using 225°C and vertical walls look printed at 100mm/s in a way that they were printed too hot => so try next time 215-210°C???.|
|Re-pet3D||rPLA Pastel Green||XXX g||3DJake instructs 195-215°C nozzle. Printed Pressure Advance square tower using 205°C and vertical walls look printed at 100mm/s look ok. Color name is accurate, finish is matte but there is little diffused gloss. Exceptional layer adhesion; when breaking 2 perimiter wide vertical walls, they are very tough to break and when broken mostly seemed to break based on how I twisted, not always following layer lines like with most filament.|
|SainSmart||White||XXX g||Matte white filament. Prints quite nice but suffers from elephant foot more than average filaments. When printed @ 200°C results are matte for 44mm/s, and equally semiglossy for 22mm/s and 11mm/s.Spool identical to Creality Green PLA (transparent little wider than Filamentum, about same width as Prusament.|
|SainSmart||PRO 3 Silk PLA Green||XXX g||Filament tested using the 6x temperature tower using PrusaSlicer default speed for three bottom "layers" and 20mm/s for three top layers, and temperatures 215-200-185°C. Printing temperature doesn't have any effect to color or glossiness. 20mm/s was darker than default speed 35mm/s. Bed adhesion was not the greatest; both edges of temperature tower lifted. Stringiness was high for a PLA filament. 45° overhang was OK, 55° overhand did curve upwards towards end of bed (the part cooling fan blows from front), and this was pretty bad as well as the whole rear edge of 55° overhang. All other temperatures and speed were awful, but 185°C and 20mm/s was somewhat tolerable. My temperature tower has 20-60mm bridging and this filament bridged quite well using all temperatures (bridging default speed 25mm/s, top part 20mm/s - does not seem to make difference).|
Most likely optimal settings will be 25mm/s @ 190°C.
|Spectrum||Spicy Copper||XXX g||Package: nozzle 210-240°C, bed 40-60°C. Bench printed at 220°C was stringy and there was quite a lot of layer to layer differences (bad tolerance of filament). Filament doesn't look like copper, it looks like light brown with glossy finish.|
|Spectrum||Stardust Blue||XXX g||Package: nozzle 185-215°C, bed 0-45°C. Accidentally printed 60°C bed, nothing bad happened, but print didn't stick, other end of 120mm x 15mm piece lifted from smooth PEI after few layers -> need to test 45°C bed but that will stick even less... Colors is very dark violet/blue with some red in it. Amount of glitter is moderate, more than in Prusament "Galaxy" but way less than in 3D Jake. Finish is @25mm/s matte 185-195°C, and start to get semiglossy 205-215°C - layer print temperature has effect to glossiness/darkness.|
|Sunlu||Grass Green||XXX g||Little bit darker than the other "army green" like greens, hue is little from green towards blue. Semiglossy finish. Personal note; this is the one used in computer front dust-screen holder.|
|Sunlu||PLA+ Black||XXX g||Temperatures from cardboard box: nozzle 210-235°C, heated bed required 70-80°C|
|Sunlu||PLA+ Silk Blue||XXX g||Looks very similar to "PLA+ Silk Green" even missing the "Silk" from the name, but also Sunly and Amazon are not the clearest what filament one is buying... Temperatures are same As "PLA+ Silk Green" so I decided to try printing this close to bottom of temperature range @ 215°C and this was mistake: layer adhesion was not at all same level as "PLA+ Silk Green" @ 230°C. Surface finish was shiny and filament looks very good, beautiful light blue. As filament was not good for low temperature printing I decided to print 2nd test print, but this time at maximum recommended temperature 235°C. And it seems layer to layer adhesion was better, but still not "perfect" even at higher temperature. Surface finish is glossy and color still nice saturated light blue. Like "PLA+ Silk Green" filament is softer and more flexible than typical PLAs. Seems that based on the Sunly PLA+ Blue and Silk Green that these Sunlu PLA+ filaments are worth checking other colors as well; are they are good as Silk Green or otherwise good but lacking layer-to-layer adhesion like Blue?|
Update! Unlike most PLA I was able to use Textured Powder-coated PEI sheet without gluestick @ 235°C nozzle & 80°C bed (1st layer 75°C)
|Sunlu||PLA+ Silk Green||XXX g||Temperatures from cardboard box: nozzle 210-235°C, heated bed required 70-80°C. Color is light green, almost light cyan. Surface finish is shiny. Test print was done 230°C & 75°C; 44mm/s and 22mm/s don't have much difference, and 11mm/s was clearly darker. Some reviews complained about layer and bed adhesion, but at my settings neither is problem. Filament is more flexible and softer than normal PLA, makes also different sound when dropped to table for example, also possible to scratch with fingernail - Filament properties very similar to Fiberlogy FiberSilk filaments.|
Update: After actual printing; really nice filament, really nice homegenous shiny prints, absolute no issue due to changing diameter/shape of filament. 100% infill doesn't come homegenous if flow rate is default for PLA (15mm3/s), reducing to 11mm3/s produced good results when printed 235°C nozzle. Same was observed with Fiberlogy FiberSilk filaments, both of these behave similar and are very PETG-like.
EDIT: Print results great also with Voron, and standard Afterburner was able to cool down enough.
|Sunlu||PLA+ Silk Red||XXX g||Physical properties like Silk Green. Color is saturated red, not as saturated as Prusament Lipstick Red but very close. Surface finish is always shiny, on test sample 44mm/s and 22mm/s are similar (22mm/s very little darker) and 11mm/s was clearly darker.|
|Sunlu||PLA+ Silk Gold||XXX g||Physical properties like Silk Green. Color is like gold and finish always shiny. If trying to imitate gold color then it's worth to note that slower print speed will cause darker end results, and to imitate gold the 44mm/s on test sample was closest to gold in my eye - so in practice very hard to make things look like gold as small and/or complicated objects will not print this high speeds.|
|Sunlu||Black||XXX g||Not tried yet|
|Sunlu||Silk Black||XXX g||Not tried yet. According to Sunlu|
|Tinmorry||Matte PLA Army green||XXX g||Like advertised color is army green, slightly darker compared to what usually is considered as army green. Temperature range is on the low end; 180-200°C. When printed with PrusaSlicer's "Generic PLA" profile and 190°C the end result was matte. Difference in layer printing duration didn't seem to cause color/tone/glossiness. On Z-level where layer print time changes radically there were issues, like shrinkage of whole layer which layer print time was 10x previous layers. Bed adhesion was good using 195°C first layer seemed to be OK.|
|Tinmorry||Matte PLA Khaki||XXX g||Khaki colored matter filament. Similar to the Matte PLA Army green with similar layer to layer issues. Additionally noticed that very large prints were more khaki, and smaller prints had more yellow/orange tint on them.|
|XXX g||Not tried yet|
|3DJAKE||niceABS||XXX g||Recommendations: nozzle 235-255°C, bed 100°C.|
Dark Blue: First ever ABS I printed and it printed fine with first layer 255°C & 105°C and rest 245°C & 100°C. Color is nice dark blue, finish is different ABS has own "look", glossy finish but different than glossy PLAs.
Black: Similar to dark blue. Black is black, not dark grey, no color tint. Finish is semiglossy.
Yellow: Color is darker yellow and very saturated. Finish is semigloss or matte or something between them. Doesn't print technically as nice as dark blue; when layer print time is large print looks slightly different and layer might expand in X and Y axles - this issue is mostly fixed when printing multiple different parts at same time to harmonize the layer print times.
Green: Prints nicely like other niceABS filaments. Color is quite ugly "mustard yellow tinted to green" and finish is semiglossy. Filament has tendency to change shade based on layer print time. Will not buy 2nd time, one of the ugliest colors I have seen.
Bronze: Again, print nicely. Color is some sort of "metallic light brown", hard to see "bronze" in it. Also this filament has tendency to change shade based on layer print time. Will not buy 2nd time.
Dark Grey: Finally, one filament which claims to be dark gray and is not "slightly darker than same brand silver filament". Prints same as other niceABS filaments. With copper nozzle 245/240°C nozzle and 100°C is best. Also 90°C bed can be used but like any other ABS any increase in chamber temperature improves print quality.
Red: Nice saturated red with typically semigloss finish of 3DJake niceABS.
|3DJAKE||ASA||XXX g||Recommendation: nozzle 210-250°C, bed 60-100°C. Does not print as well as niceABS. For example 200mm bar with 10mm width and 17mm heigth raises from smooth PEI bed,
where at same conditions (105°C bed, 46°C chamber) any of the ABS would not suffer from the same.|
Dark grey: Disappointment when compared to niceABS. Printed in identical conditions as all ABS and this one didn't stick to smooth PEI bed and 16.5mm part (the Voron AfterBurner blower housing, what I have used ABS test print) started to lift off from bed after 10mm. Color is dark grey, and finish is semiglossy. Filament also had more layer to layer variance than other filaments. Will not buy 2nd time. On positive side "color" is dark gray, not just typical "little darker than silver filament but barely medium grey and definitely not dark grey" what we typically get.
EDIT: With Voron prints better, no warping issues with 50°C chamber.
Light Blue: Very nice semiglossy light blue. 245°C was too much, specially af fan was not enabled before layer.
Light Green: Quite OK looking light green - niceABS is really ugly and when comparing these two, this is pure green, and the niceBAS is more yellow. Print quality was very good @ 240°C.
Black: Semiglossy black. Expected to print nicer, but not even close to generic black ABS or 3DJAKE's niceABS. Also I find it weird that material seems much more harder; and by this I mean that finished part is not as flexible as ABS part, and "sound" when hitting part or dropping part to surface is similar to brittle PLA. I somehow assumed that ABS and ASA are about the same.
|Amazon basics||ABS dark gray||XXX g||Filament in spool looks promising, dark gray is really dark grey and not "slightly darker than same filament manufacturer silver". However this ended up being "darkish" gray, not as dark as 3DJake's dark gray. Settings in spool 235-255°C nozzle and 90-110°C bed. Printed very nicely 250°C and 100°C (I was surpriced I assume this is low quality filament), and perimeters were very even and layer printing time differences didn't create issues. "Color" was dark gray, not as dark as 3DJake's dark gray, but very close. Finish is semiglossy. Very fine looking filament, didn't expect much but seems to be good one. I also noticed that 3 first layers were darker and finish was more glossy, this might indicate that filament has little tendency to change tone/finish, so better be careful with very short layer times and enable fan already from 2nd layer, if bottom of part suffers from different shade of gray.|
|AzureFilm||ABS-P||XXX g||Recommendation: nozzle 230-260°C, bed 90-120°C.|
Green: Printed nicely using 250°C nozzle and 105/100°C bed and no fan. Color is low saturation green and finish is semiglossy. Much better quality than AzureFilm's ASA, which had various issues.
Blue: Prusa print was not great. Need to reprint test parts with Voron to comment.
Black: Not yet printed.
White: It has been said that white filaments are worst quality - and that might have some truth in it... One of the worst bed adhesions of ABS/ASA-filaments. Filament is "gummy" and sticks to brass nozzle quite badly and sticky filament causes similar problems as PETG when printing with too small first layer height.
EDIT: Decided to check with enclosed ABS machine (Voron), and this filament still sucks. With 51°C chamber part stayed in the bed even Z-offset was little too big. However this is still not usable; on the test part (Voron AfterBurner blower housing) whole layer midpart shrunk on layer (or above it) where it has long layer print time, and it's somehow relevant to the large amount of heat put to that layer. Not gonna going to buy again...
|Azurefilm||ASA green||XXX g||Recommendation: nozzle 240-260°C, bed 90-110°C. Prints nicely, layer to layer variance little too big for my taste thou.
Not sure why but requires minimal fan (15-18%) or otherwise got "bubbly surface" thou not clear why as it only happened to right
side when fan was complately off, and only at right side of bed. Also the layer to layer variation was smaller with 0% fan.
Color is some sort of pastel green, and finish is matte. Not keen on buying this filament again.|
EDIT: Used this to print for parents the fan to suck the "mold smell" from basement to outdoors instead smell (and whatever comes with it...) going to indoors. Printed nice with 0.8mm nozzle and 25mm3 with Phaetus Dragon High Flow, and print came out OK (don't expect perfection with mentioned settings, done 100% for speed and durability/strengt). Time will show if the green fades, it's on South-East wall so getting some hours of direct sunlight every day.
|eSun||ABS+||230g/###g||Recommendation: nozzle 220-260°C. Prints great without fan or with 18% fan using 255/245°C nozzle & 100/95°C bed.|
Green: Filamentum calls their green "Turquoise Green", while it's one of more pure greens, and this one could have used "Turquoise Green" as it's name - so the blue tint is present on this filament. Finish is matte. Color is little weird, how viewer and light are arranged has effect how the color is perceived, so for example if your product has parts printed on different orientations next to each another differences can be seen. Easy to print and print quality is good.
EDIT: The prints I have done with Voron look super nice if one likes matte filaments, this is definitely good choice.
Pine green: This was disappointment as on spool and on websites looked great. In real life it is low saturation matte filament. Also consideting that eSun PLA+ is very nice glossy "British racing green"; one of my most favorite from all filaments available. The inconsistency between different filament types and same branding is huge.
Peak green: Matte light green, kind of "pastel" color but little too vibrant to be called as pastel.
Blue: Matte medium/dark blue. Most of eSun ABS+ is very boring, but this could be useful for something as it's quite saturated.
Light Blue: Matte baby blue, kind of "pastel" color, but like Peak Green little too vibrant to categorize as pastel.
Purple: Matte purple. Most of eSun ABS+ filaments are boring, but this one is very saturated and could be interesting when combined to some lighter colors (Peak Green and Yellow comes to mind).
Magenta: Magenta? Dark pink with matte/semiglossy finish.
Red: Maybe ugliest red filament I have ever seen; matter low saturated red - looks like normal plastic would have been 5 years outdoors in Arizona... Prints the same as majority of eSun ABS+.
Fire engine red: Dark red (medium saturation), semiglossy finish. One of the less boring eSun ABS+ colors, could consider buying again.
Brown: Matte brown, prints nice.
Yellow: Matte light medium saturated yellow. Doesn't print as nice as other eSun ABS+. The layer print duration affects visual appearance and external perimiters on layer with longer print time clearly differentiate from others.
Gray: Nice matte grey with slight hint of blue tint. On typical low quality indoor lightning it can be really weird if expectation is gray, mostly looks blueish gray, but on high quality 5000-6000K CRI>85% lightning typically OK. Shade is "darkish", I would not call this "dark gray" but not as flat looking as "typical gray filaments". I assumed that all eSun ABS+ filaments prints the same, but I was wrong; this one has worse bed adhesion than Magenta(=pink) and Fire engine red. And this was not just on time event it happened both with textured and smooth beds while magenta printed very nicely with exact same conditions. In addition there was shade differene based on layer print time (my test print is Voron Afterburner [a]_blower_housing_front.stl and clear difference on layer where the large horizontal surface changes the layer print time)
Silver: Matte light gray with warmish tone (tinted towards red/yellow), can't stretch my imagination to call this silver... Print quality seems OKish, little difference on layers based on layer print time, otherwise normal eSun ABS+.
Natural: This ABS+ natural is quite white, not so yellowish what natural ABS usually is. Finish is matte. Printed OK 250°C and 100°C bed, not great just OK, as small detail didn't attach to bed and there were slight differences when layer printtime changed radically.
Black: Matte black ABS. Prints as nice as other eSun ABS+ filaments. In my generic ABS profile I have first 3 layers without fan; that is NOT USABLE setting with this filament, because the 3 first layer external perimeters will become semi-glossy and much deeper black than the layers above cooled by the fan.
|eSun||ABS||XXX g||Recommendation: nozzle 2420-260°C. Not as good as ABS+, for example layer printtime has effect to color.|
Green: Darkish green with slight blue tint (=turquoise). Semiglossy finish.
|Extrudr||DuraPro ABS Anthracite||XXX g||Recommended temperatures are lower than usual: 195-240°C nozzle and bed 80-110°C. "Color" is kind of darkish medium gray (these anthracite filaments are joke, none of them is anthracite...), with semiglossy finish. Print quality otherwise OK, but print layer duration caused slight defect to vertical walls (typical to most filaments, can be seen in about halfway of Voron Afterburner Blower Housing Front).|
Edit: With Voron 2.4 forgot the temperature recommendation, and found out that at 250°C the filament "smokes" or "steams" like one would have wet filament (this was not the case; I dried filament whole ~16h before printing). To my surprise print turned out nice, but finish was much more shiny and color darker. However overhangs curve upwards and look really rough. So 250°C is definitely not good... Also 90°C was not enough for bed; part detached from the bed midprint...
EDIT2: So with Voron 2nd try was with nozzle @ 230°C first layer and @ 225°C other layers and 100°C
|Fiberlogy||ABS plus yellow||268g||Recommendations: nozzle 250-265°C. Bed adhesion very weak or warping very strong or both, definitely will not buy again this one.
Had to use 5mm brim and to get Afterburner blower housing to stick into bed. As second ABS print ever after 3DJAKE's niceABS this filament absolutly sucks.
Colour is yellow (not very saturated, but does not look weak either), and finish is matte.|
EDIT: After printing with Voron, I can say that this is worst ABS I have tried. On 52°C temperature 30mm high 120mm length part bend 2mm off from bed from both ends.
|Fiberlogy||ABS Onyx||268g||Printed just Pressure Advance this far, and printed OK at 265°C but layer adhesion did suffer from using fan even printed on enclosure.
So this filament most likely needs no-fan or very low fan, or 1h preheating of chamber to reach >50°C - try to figure out some method for actual prints...
The glitter in this filament is weird, the surface is just full of tiny imperfections and VERY small number of the imperfections is shiny.
I guess need to see in real print how this actually works.|
EDIT: Real print sucks as well. Fiberlogy is weird brans; their Easy ABS is one of the best ABS I have ever printed, behaves so nicely and prints so smooth, but then their ordinary ABS and ABS plus both seem to just suck.
|Fiberlogy||ABS Graphite||268g||Printed without issues @ 245°C. This is just middle grey with semiglossy finish.|
|Fiberlogy||Easy ABS||268g||Recommendations: 230-255°C. Filament is transparent, interesting to see how parts turn out...and oh boy this filament prints very nicely
(even better than eSun ABS+, really really good) and printed result is litte transparent as well. Printed parts are so smooth; smooth perimeters and really
nice top and bottom surfaces - I have parts with top surface ironing and I can't see or feel which surface is top and which bottom.
I was suspicious of mechanical qualities and strength, but they are very good even filament is transparent, easy to print, looking nice and on top of all quite cheap.
One of the best filaments I have found this far (2021/07), would be nice to have some more colors.|
Transparent Light green: Color is low saturation light green (slight yellowish tint). Infill can be clearly seen.
Navy Blue Transparent: Very saturated dark blue. As it's so dark it blocks so much more light than the light green that infill is difficult/impossible to see 4 perimiters or 5 solid layers.
Transparent Burgundy: Not printed yet.
Pure Transparent: Not glass like transparent, more like transparent white. Infill can be clearly seen through 4 perimeters or 5 solid layers. Doesn't look like to have any color tint. This should work nicely as diffusor for led lights, haven't tried that yet, but will use it for Voron 2.4 led lights.
|Fiberlogy||ASA Graphite||268g||Recommendation: nozzle 255-270°C, bed 90-110°C.|
("Prusa Pearl" spool)
|Filament-PM tries to warn that this is somehow difficult to print, but with Voron it print very nicely.
Green: Wow, absolute best green ABS; saturated glossy pure green. Not light green or dark green, just medium green.
Printed first prints at 245°C nozzle and 100°C bed with 33% fan, and results were excellent.
Lower bed temp would be enough, but I think better keep it at 100°C to maintain 50°C chamber temperature
with Voron as this is plain ABS, no ABS+ so this really requires warm chamber to print.|
Petrol Green: Dark green tinted with blue. Finish is glossy. Very nice filament if you have suitable use for the color.
("Prusa Pearl" spool)
|Filament PM says that this is hard to print, but printed 240°C nozzle and 110°C bed (to increase chamber temperature)
and print quality is at best level (on par with Filamentum ABS for example), minimal or no variations on Z-layers even on my test print
few layers print multiple minutes while rest of layers are about 1 minute.
Sadly colors suck in ABS-T "series" of filaments from Filament PM, this kind of print quality would be interesting on other colors as well.|
Copper: Color is not exactly copper, but some kind of light brown. Bottom surface was quite matte, but perimeters are semiglossy as well as top layer.
Silver: Better than other brand "silver" filaments, which are generally "light gray". This one is quite shiny light gray, definitely best "silver" from all ABS-filaments tried.
("Prusa Pearl" spool)
|I have not yet tried the filament. According to Filament-PM 240-260°C nozzle, 100-110°C bed and needs "Magigoo PC". Should be really tough material and able to handle 115°C. Interesting to see does this REALLY need Magigoo or will ordinary PEI or PEI+gluestick work. Also it could work with the BuildTak surface.|
|Fillamentum||ABS Extrafill||XXX g||Generally: Most ABS print nicely, but this one is on it's own category. Very little variation between layers even layer print time varies.
All Filamentum ABS colors I have tried are strong, and no boring matte finish.|
Turquoise green: Wow! Strong darkish green, with semiglossy finish. 10/10!
Cobalt blue: Dark low saturation blue with semiglossy finish.
Sky blue: Very nice light blue. Reminds me of Prusament Azure Blue.
Yellow: This one didn't print as nicely as other colors, needed to drop temperature (235°C) and increase fan. Color is very nice, very similar to 3DJake's Yellow, which I like very much; thou little brighter but as saturated or even little more saturated
Traffic Black: Glossy black like one would assume from Filamentum's prefix "Traffic".
|Fillamentum||ASA Extrafill||XXX g||Printed 250°C and 100°C and print quality was very good like all Fillamentums.
Green grass: Very mild olive green.|
Vertigo Grey: Matt light gray with glitter. Very similar look as Prusament Galaxy Black (it's more light dark grey, not black).
Traffic black: Haven't opened the package yet...
|Formfutura||reForm rTitan Black||XXX g||Recommendation: nozzle 240-260°C, bed 90-110°C,0-30% fan. Have seen in Voron discord mentions that hard to detach from bed if one let's bed to cool. I don't remember problems, but based on prints I found it seems I only used textured sheet with Prusa and Voron. So need to observe this when printing next time with this filament using smooth PEI sheet.|
|Formfutura||EasyFil||XXX g||Formfutura instructs to use 225-270°C nozzle, 90-110°C bed and gives weird Yes/No recommendation for enclosure.|
|Formfutura||TitanX||XXX g||Formfutura instructs to use 240-260°C nozzle, 70-100°C bed and gives weird Yes/No recommendation for enclosure.|
|Formfutura||ApolloX||XXX g||Formfutura instructs to use 235-255°C nozzle, 80-100°C bed and enclosure. I have this filament only as black.|
|Prima||PrimaSelect ABS Green||XXX g||Prima recommends 220-270°C. Printer part is very matte green - shade of green is between pure middle green and olive green, closer to the middle green. At 250°C printed part was good, no layer to layer variancy due to filament diameter changes, but in closer inspection large differences on layer print time cause slightly visible differences between layers. (Yes same text as in green - from printability/quality they are similar)|
|Prima||PrimaSelect ABS Dark Grey||XXX g||Prima recommends 220-270°C. Printed part is between matte and semiglossy dark green (this can be considered as dark grey unlike majority of "dark" grey filaments). At 250°C printed part was good, no layer to layer variancy due to filament diameter changes, but in closer inspection large differences on layer print time cause slightly visible differences between layers.|
|Prima||PrimaValue ABS Green||XXX g||Prima recommends 220-270°C. Raw filament looks exactly same as 3DJake's niceABS Green, also spool is same what 3DJake uses - so it does not even remotely look the same as in website pictures, much more yellow and lighter than in Prima website - I would say "Ugly mustard with green tint". Printed parts look and behave exactly the same as 3DJake niceABS Green - this must be same filament; no change that two factories would come up this ugly color and everything else exactly same.|
|Prima||PrimaValue ABS Dark Grey||XXX g||Prima recommends 220-270°C. Raw filament looks exactly same as 3DJake's niceABS Dark Grey, also spool is same. However this one did have print issues what 3DJake's Dark Grey doesn't have. The issues I had were in test print (Voron Afterburner 40x20 blower housing) on layer which had long duration and ironing; layers around that long print time layer had lots of issues, not just small tone shift and slightly different layer but deformations which go over multiple layers around the problematic layer. Same gcode file with PrimaValue Green or PrimaSelect ABS did not have these issues. I'll try same gcode also with 3DJake's Dark Grey.|
|Sunlu||ABS Blue||XXX g||Package and spool say very wide temperature range 230-270°C and 80-120°C bed. Printed nicely. Blue is medium/dark (closer to medium) blue with semiglossy finish. Saturation is high and I'm positively surpriced about this filament.|
I haven't used much yet PETG. Warping is much worse than PLA, and in most large prints at least the corners tend to "lift off" with PLA. PETG requires higher temperatures so without enclosure it would be really hard to print large prints like speaker parts without warping. I really would like to use PETG as there really aren't many glossy PLA filaments.
|Basicfill||Signal White||XXX g||Matte white, not 100% white, very very small warm tint. Good bed adhesion and prints nicely 240°C first layer and 250°C other layers.|
|Basicfill||Transparent Blue||XXX g||Prints very nicely at 250°C, haven't tried other temperatures. Result is somewhat transparent. In the print I did I used feature to adjust layer height and it was mistake; the 0.15mm layer height is considerable less saturated and less transparent than layers printed 0.30mm.|
|Basicfill||Transparent Green||XXX g||Dried properly before printing, and was surprised for this cheap PETG: printed very well, not any kind of issues, there was not even warping on my first print, which was 15 hour printout. Colour is light green and surface quality was good. Finish is shiny. I used 4 perimiters, which removed the issue if seeing the infill, I can see infill via bottom and when using 2 layers..|
|Enotepad||White||XXX g||Total carbage. Weak bed adhesion. Very stringy. Tends to caube "blobs" (collects filament to outside of nozzle and at some point "drops" the collected blob to printed part). All this after oepning factory closed pack and drying 18h at 60°C. Temperature range provided by manufacturer 200-220°C, but 230-240°C produced best results. Spool is 100% identical to Sunly PETG I ordered at same time from Amazon in 2020, and both have this ridiculously low 200-220°C recommendation, interesting to see if Sunly is actually same filament with same issues. Only visual difference to Sunly is different size label in spool, slightly different bag and different looking desiccant bags.|
|Extrudr||Emerald Green||XXX g||Extrudr recommends 210-230°C and 0-80°C bed. Printed pressure advance and test part 225&Deg;C and 75°bed, results otherwise great but Voron's standard Afterburner was not able to provide enough part cooling for test part's layers, which were above long printtime layer. Otherwise nice resutls. Color is darkish pure green and finish is glossy like all PETG filaments.|
|Fiberlogy||Easy PET-G Transparent Navy Blue||268g||Not tried yet. Package: nozzle 230-250°C|
|Fiberlogy||PCTG Navy Blue||268g||Fiberlogy: nozzle 250-270°C and 90-110°C bed. Used 260°C & 100°C. Transparent and shiny dark blue. Based on pressure advance test part; quite flexible compared to ABS and PLA. Filement is quite stringy, and some experimenting and adjustments needed (test prints just with SuperSlicer's default Voron PET profile).|
|Prusa||Prusament Galaxy Black||XXX g||Not yet used|
|Prusa||Prusament Carmine Red||XXX g|
|Prusa||Prusament Jet Black||XXX g|
|Prusa||Prusament Neon Green||XXX g||Very transparent, the inner fill shows through perimiters - I don't know situation when I would like the inner fill shown, so maybe using 8 or 16 perimiters needed to hide the inner fill. Need to be dried before use, high tendendy to have issues otherwise (and even dried this filament still has issues). Color is very light yellowish green. Tend to have bed adhesion issues are requires very thorough drying before printing and even then tends to "bubble".|
Edit: Found solution for printing issues; I increased from standard 0.2mm to 0.3mm for first layer in profile "0.30mm QUALITY"-profile. After this change I no longer got issues of giant blobs which otherwise were happening with this PETG as well as Prusament Ultramarine Blue, but not with other PETGs.
|Prusa||Prusament Ultramarine Blue||XXX g||Very nice and vibrant color, somewhat transparent. Need to be dried before use, high tendency to have issues otherwise. Also not the greatest bed adhesion.|
|Prusa||Prusament Pistachio Green||200 g||Very pale green as expected. When printed with default profile (first layer 240°C nozzle, 85°C bed - other layers 250° & 90°, only changed max flow to 10mm3/s), 0.6mm chamfer on bottom and no elephant foot compensation was close to perfect, could try next time 0.5mm, bed adhesion was great with glue and on the first parts printed there was no warping. Perimeters glossy, top between glossy and semiglossy. Got 100x better feeling than from other Prusament PETGs I have tries before, also didn't "bubble" and have other moisture issues, which riddled both of the semitransparent (Neon Green and Ultramarine Blue) and Carmine Red, and to get decent results tens of hours drying was needed.|
|Prusa||Prusament Ocean Blue||200 g||xxx|
|Prusa||Prusament Anthrasite Grey||200 g||xxx|
|Prusa||Prusament Signal White||200 g||xxx|
|Prusa||Prusament Clear||200 g||Similar to Neon Green and Ultramarine Blue; tends to have bed adhesion issues and also similar issues requiring 10-12h drying of filament before printing.|
|Prusa||Transparent||This may or may not be same than then Prusament Transparent PETG. Not yet tried.|
|SainSmart||Pro-3 Blue||XXX g||Prints very nicely, and doesn't need as badly drying as other PETG I have tried (of course beneficial to dry filament before printing). Surface can be very nicely glossy or semiglossy based on printing temperature. Color is "annoying", very vibrant baby blue - maybe if one likes baby blue... color doesn't at all match to the color on Amazon/eBay photos on advertisements (those tend to be something which generally is called Royal Blue)|
|SainSmart||Pro-3 Lila||XXX g||Nice glossy dark lila. Otherwise printed nice, but even having 0.75mm chamfer on bottom plate thera was quite big "elephant foot" going all the way up to ~2mm. As it's PETG I used textured bed and bed adhesion was OK, but was not enough to hold print (110mm x 160mm x 55mm box, top open, with 10mm rounding on bottom corners) in the print plate, but insteds corners did lift.|
|SainSmart||Pro-3 Black||XXX g||First print was absolute horrible - either there is moisture in filament or this black PETG is much worse than the Blue or Lila variants. After drying filament 24h (not joke...) the result was better, however stringing is still major problem. The results from printing temperature tower was weird, if I would have not observed this printing I would assume I had forgotten to add the G-code for changing temperature; the results from 220-230-240-250-260°C were almost identical, minor differences on stringing and smooth surfaces were little more smoother. One positive feature as well; this is ONLY temperature tower I have printed this far, which 55° overhang printed perfectly.|
|Sunlu||Blue||XXX g||Not tried yet|
|Sunlu||White||XXX g||Not tried yet|
|Sunlu||Green||XXX g||This is "neon green" unlike the Prusament which claims to be. Glossy finish. Material is quite flexible compared to Prusament PETGs.|
|Spectrum||Navy Blue||XXX g||Package: nozzle 230-255°C, bed 60-80°C. After trying and getting disappointed Spectrum PLAs this was positive surprise. Filament prints very nicely, bridging and overhangs are great as well as bed and layer adhesion. Finish: 220°C matte, 230°C matte/semigloss, 240°C semigloss/glossy and above glossy. 240°C almost no stringing, 250°C little stringing and 260-270°C lots of stringing. 245&Deg;C most likely optimal for glossy finish and still minimum stringing.|
|Spectrum||Lime Green||XXX g||Not tried yet. Package: nozzle 230-255°C, bed 60-80°C|
|AzureFilm||PETG Grey||XXX g||Not tried yet. Package: nozzle 200-240°C, bed 80°C|
|Eryone||Yellow||XXX g||Package 220-240°C. Stringiness is problem, and retraction settings don't seem to have any effect to it. At 240°C longer layer print time caused the yellow to be darker (complex structure with lots of horizontal planes => external perimiters on heights with longer layers with lots of solid infill/top infill did look different). Best settings seem to be 230°C and unlike many other filaments extrusion multiplier 100% produces good top surfaces, 105% was not significantly better.|
|Eryone||White||XXX g||Package says 220-240°C. Did print otherwise OK but there is too much stringing, and tried 8 all retractions between 0 and 4mm. Top solid surface best when extrusion multiplier set to 107%. External perimiters nice and shiny, no matter what settings.|
|Eryone||Black||XXX g||Not tried yet|
|Basicfill||Black||XXX g||Not tried yet|
|XXX g||Not tried yet|
|XXX g||Not tried yet|
|XXX g||Not tried yet|
|XXX g||Not tried yet|
I have very small experience of flexible filaments. In general it seems that they seem to work by just losening the filament feeder gears and using low printing speeds.
|Fillamentum||Flexfill 98A Luminous Green||XXX g||Prints nicely. Similar neon green as Sunlu PETG. Don't use with smooth bed, it sticks too much and will tear off the surface. Very hard filament, not much different compared to PETG, parted printed with this are very rigid, not flexible|
|SainSmart||TPU Green||XXX g||Shore hardness according to SainSmart is 95A. Considering how hard Fillamentum 98A is it was surprice to me how much more flexible this filament on spool is - thou printouts didn't turn out giganticly flexible compared to 98A. Filament is bright translucent green with glossy finish. First test print was with PrusaSlicer "Generic FLEX" (volumetricly limited to 1.2mm3/s, 1.15 extrusion multiplier => will be printing everything at 1.4mm3/s); in middle of the test print I increased speed first to 200% and once that was successful increased it further to 300%, could not see any difference between 100%-200%-300% => so next I increased the 1.2mm3/s to 3.6mm3/s and printed benchy, and it worked fine as well. So it seems with 0.6mm nozzle, 0.2mm layers (first layer 0.3mm) @ 235°C it seems to be OK if I keep the volumetric speed below 3.6mm3/s (with the 1.15 extrusion multiplier it totals to ~4.3mm3/s in the PrusaSlicer visualization).|
EDIT: The benchy was OK from volumetric speed point of view, but the cabin and smoke pipe were almost melted to unrecognizable. So I change the settings so that minimum fan speed is 30% but goes all the way to 90% depending on layer printing duration. Also increased volumetric speed to 4mm3/s, as 3.6mm3/s was 100% fine.
|Noulei||TPU green 500g||XXX g||Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 210-230°C, bed 70-80°. Tried with and without fan, and tried 220°C and 240°C - none worked, have to take new fresh start with this one.|
Same settings mentioned for Eryone Gray TPU work decently.
|Tinmorry||TPU transparent blue||XXX g||Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 200-220°C, bed 50-80°C. The settings mentioned in Eryone Gray TPU also worked for this one. Transparent glossy saturated dark blue.|
|Sunlu||TPU blue 500g||XXX g||Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 200-220°C, bed 30-50°C. Printed "fine" with PrusaSlicer's "Generic Flex" profile, with speed increased to 3mm3/s (very stringy and overhangs were bad quality). Color is dark blue, and always shiny, even top layer was shiny.|
|Eryone||TPU gray 500g||XXX g||Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings: 95A, nozzle 200-220°C, bed 60-80°C. Clearly softer than the other 95A filaments. Finish is always glossy, shade of gray depends on alyer print time (e.g. benchy until 8mm is darker, and above that lighter gray - glossines remain same. I got best results using modified SainSmart TPU (nozzle 230°C, bed 70°C, Extrusion multiplier 1.1, 80% fan speed, Max volumetric speed 2.5mm/s[didn't touch speeds itself, this will limit it enough with 0.6mm nozzle]), thou benchy smoke pipe was just pile of molten filament, but otherwise benchy was perfect minus some some stringing (not bad, many PETG produce worse stringing). With those setting 10mm bridges perfect, 15mm OK and 20mm clearly too much. Glue stick is mandatory, won't stick to textured bed good enough.|
|NinjaTek||NinjaFlex Lava 500g||XXX g||Not tried yet. NinjaTek shore hardness and printing settings: 85A, nozzle 225-250°C, bed 50°C + gluestick, top and bottom 10-20mm/s, infill 15-35mm/s, layer 2+ use cooling fan.|
|Fiberlogy||FiberFlex 30D Black||XXX g||Not tried yet. Package: shore hardness 30D (about 86A), 200-220°C|
|Éxtrudr||Flex semisoft black||XXX g||Not tried yet. Shore hardness 85A and printing settings: 220-250°C, bec 50-60°C, speed 10-20mm/s. Printed nicely with the SainSmart profile. Print quality pretty nice, not much stringing. Not good on bridging, 15mm is too much.|
|Recreus||Filaflex 82A black||XXX g||Not tried yet. Shore hardness 82A and printing settings: 220-260°C, speed 30-110mm/s. Printed nicely with the SainSmart profile, and 200% was still printing OK, which was surprice considering how soft the filament is. This filament was quite stringy, but otherwise print quality was really good - filament had been dried 12h in dryer before printing. Like other flexibles, not good for bridging. Slightly lighter than Extrudr Flex semisoft black, almost dark grey on external perimeters after cooling, but top remains black.|
|XXX g||Not tried yet. Amazon.de web page shore hardness and printing settings:|
PETG prints much better if it's first dried about 10h with food dehydrator. For flexible it's mandatory, even directly out of the package the one I tried didn't print well, but after 10 hours in dryer it printed really well.
My dryer needed little "spacer" to make space for the spool. In some models you can just the "net" from few layers, but in this model "spacer" was better option. TODO: add photos